Monday, November 14, 2016

Tuesday Morning at the Vaison-la-Romaine Marché Provencal

The only days that are reserved before we get to Sablet are Tuesdays. Tuesday is when the weekly Marché Provencal takes place in the center of Vaison-la-Romaine. We usually go rain or shine. The latter is definitely more fun.

Since we are fortunate to have a large and very well equipped kitchen (see here) at our home in Sablet, we take advantage of the produce and bounties of the sea we find at the market and do lots of cooking for ourselves, family and friends.

By contrast when you stay in a hotel or similar accommodation, you walk through the markets, and look, sniff and drool about the possibilities that lie before you on artfully displayed tables. You will undoubtedly buy a few things for a snack or picnic, but you will miss out on a home-cooked meal on your terrace made with ingredients you bought at that's morning market.

It is approximately a 6 mile drive to get to Vaison-la-Romaine and we park at our favorite spot near Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth Cathedral. We walk up Chemin Couradou which takes you past La Villasse Roman ruins which I told you about here.

La Villasse Roman ruins

We turn up the street to go past the post office and we enter the market at the area shown below where you will always find tables of pottery from the Crestet Pottery.

Crestet Pottery

The street where the majority of the fruits, vegetables, meats, fish, seafood, cheese, and other assorted products to eat can be found is Cours Taulignan. You will also find these items on streets which intersect Cours Taulignan.

Tomato stand

Come take a look at some of the beautiful fruits and veggies and seafood we spotted on several trips to the Vaison-la-Romaine market this year.

Eggplants

Garlic stand

Cherries

Cantaloupes

Strawberries

Summer truffles

Olive oil stand

Popular butcher truck

Cheese seller

Tomato seller

The Vaison-la-Romaine Town Hall seen below is also located on Cours Taulignan.

Vaison-la-Romaine Town Hall

Olive stand

Jams and jellies

Olive seller

Sausage stand

Apricots

Olive oil stand

Mixed vegetable stand

Rhubarb

Charcuterie and melons

Gourmet sauces

Dry saucissons

Radishes

Peaches

Dry saucissons

Nougat

Jams

Various seafood

Various whole fish

In addition to the Tuesday market in Vaison-la-Romaine, the Lafont family of Maree du Comtat Venaison can be found in Bollene on Monday, Orange on Thursday, Friday in Sablet, a change from this summer and Saturdays in Vaison-la-Romaine and Sainte-Cécile-les-Vignes. They have a very large selection of whole fish, fillets and unusual seafoods. I have been known to go to multiple markets the same week so I can buy their beautiful fresh fish.

Our favorite poissonnier is Edmond Lafont of Maree du Comtat Venaison

Fruit vendor

Vegetable and fruit vendor on one of the side streets

Don't need a whole butternut squash, don't worry about it. The seller will be happy to sell you a slice, quarter or half.

Butternut squash

Chestnuts

I made a yummy cauliflower gratin this fall from cauliflower I bought from the vendor below based on a recipe from Thomas Keller he shared in his Bouchon cookbook.

Cauliflower

As you can see below, there was a bounty of cepe (porcini) mushrooms available so I made cepe risotto several times and sautéed them with garlic and parsley for a simple side dish.

Cepe (Porcini) mushrooms

Fresh figs

Large bins of salad greens

Variety of sweet peppers

When we leave the market we are usually loaded down with fresh fruits and vegetables and whatever tablecloth, pottery, souvenir or kids clothes that caught Shirley's eye, we walk down Jules Ferry Avenue past the Jules Ferry elementary school seen below to our car. Then it's immediately time to start thinking about lunch.

Jules Ferry elementary school in Vaison-la-Romaine

Next week is Thanksgiving and I am already thinking about where I will go to buy my fresh ingredients for our family meal which this year will include a large contingent of favorite cousins from France. As I write this post, I am regretting that I won't be able to go to the Vaison-la-Romaine market on Tuesday before Thanksgiving.

If you happen to be residing at our house or another place in Sablet, don't feel too bad if you miss the market. While you can't recreate the special experience of shopping at an authentic Marché Provencal like Vaison-la-Romaine, the Vival epicerie run by our great friends Alain and Myriam Fabre is well stocked with high quality products and produce. Be forewarned, you won't find any fresh fish or seafood.

Have a great week. A bientot.

Wednesday, November 2, 2016

Tomato Tarte Tatin, Delicious for First Course or Light Lunch

A few weeks ago, we ate lunch at a lovely restaurant which offered an unusual, at least for France unusual, three-course vegetarian menu option. The choices looked so yummy, that most of us chose the vegetarian option. I will soon write a post about our visit to Venasque and lunch at Les Remparts. For now, I will say our starter of "Tarte Tatin aux Tomates" was to die for. It was so good!

When we got back to California, I was happy to see that there were lots of Roma tomatoes in the garden along with an abundant crop of Oregano. So I began a quest to duplicate that yummy tart by searching my collection of cookbooks, as well as online at Google and Pinterest. The recipe which follows draws from multiple sources. I hope you like it.

Michel's Tarte Tatin Aux Tomates with Arugula

In a large skillet, large enough to hold 2 3/4 pounds of Roma tomatoes, melt butter and sugar over medium heat until they caramelize like shown below. Just before you take it off the stove, add 2 finely diced garlic cloves. Don't let them burn.

Caramelized butter and sugar

Arrange the halved and seeded Roma tomatoes, cut sides up in your large skillet as shown below. Lower the heat and cook for 10 minutes until the tomatoes release most of their juice.

Halved and seeded Roma tomatoes arranged on top of caramelized butter, sugar and garlic

Add balsamic vinegar and cook 2 minutes more. Arrange the tomatoes in an 11 or 12-inch tart pan with removable base, cut sides up. Spoon some of the juices from the pan over the tomatoes, there is a lot of flavor in the juices.

Cooked tomatoes in tart pan

Oregano from the garden

Sprinkle with Oregano, salt and pepper to taste.

Cooked tomatoes with fresh Oregano, salt and pepper, ready for pie pastry

Roll the pie pastry and with sharp knife or scissors, cut it into a 12-inch round. Place it on top of the tomatoes, tucking it in at the edges. With a fork, make small holes in the pastry.


Set the tart on a rimmed baking sheet and transfer to a preheated oven. Immediately reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees. Bake the tart for 30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown.


Let the tart sit for 5 minutes after you take it out of the oven. Run a knife around the pastry to loosen it from the pan. Now if you have a fluted tart pan like me, don't worry about running a knife around the edge of the pan. It pulled away on its own while it was resting.

Set a large plate upside down on the tart and using pot holders, turn the plate right side up so the tart comes out. Garnish with oregano.


Ingredients

3 tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon brown sugar
2 finely diced garlic cloves
2 3/4 pounds Roma tomatoes, halved and seeded
2 tablespoons Balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon chopped fresh Oregano
Salt and pepper to taste
Pie pastry for a 12-inch tart
Extra fresh Oregano for garnish

Directions

1. Preheat the over to 400 degrees. Have on hand an 11 or 12-inch tart pan with removable base and a rimmed baking sheet.

2. In a large skillet of sufficient size to hold all the tomatoes, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and cook it until it is fully dissolved. When it starts to caramelize, add the diced garlic. Take it off the heat.

3. Add the tomatoes and arrange them cut sides up in the skillet. Put back on the heat and lower the temperature and cook for 10 minutes or until the tomatoes release most of their juice.

4. Add the Balsamic vinegar and cook for 2 minutes more. Remove from heat.

5. Arrange the tomatoes in an 11 or 12-inch tart pan with removable base, cut sides up. Spoon some of the juices from the pan over the tomatoes.

6. Sprinkle with the Oregano and salt and pepper to taste.

7. Roll the pie pastry and with sharp knife or scissors, cut it into a 12-inch round. Place it on top of the cooked tomatoes, tucking it in at the edges. With a fork, make small holes in the pastry.

8. Set the tart on a rimmed baking sheet and transfer to a preheated oven. Immediately reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees. Bake the tart for 30 minutes, or until the pastry is golden brown. Remove from oven.

9. Let the tart sit for 5 minutes after you take it out of the oven. Run a knife around the pastry to loosen it from the pan.

10. Set a large plate upside down on the tart and using pot holders, turn the plate right side up so the tart comes out. Garnish with oregano.

11. Cut the tart into wedges and garnish with oregano. Serve with dressed greens.

Bon appétit.