Les Baux de Provence, a gem in the Alpilles

We usually go to Mausanne or Mouries to buy bottles of the delicious olive oil that is produced in the Vallée des Baux and to buy wine and riz de Camargue - red rice produced in the Camargue region, at Mas de Gourgonnier every time we are in Sablet.

Our route to the Alpilles and Vallée des Baux where this wonderful olive oil is produced usually takes us past Les Baux de Provence, an ancient fortress town that can be seen from far away; the defensive possibilities of the site are clearly evident.

One morning a few months back, my family having left for California, I went to Mausanne to pick up tins of olive oil pressed from the 2010 harvest just a few weeks earlier. When I finished, I headed for Les Baux de Provence, figuring there wouldn't be too many visitors at that time of year and I could find parking close to the entrance to the village.

Les Baux de Provence is a very picturesque village about 75 kms southwest of our house in Sablet. The village sits in a spectacular site on a rocky outcrop with ancient houses and a ruined castle perched on top of the village overlooking the plains to the south. The road to Les Baux from the south takes you past olive groves and vineyards.

The village is officially classified as one of the Les Plus Beaux Villages de France - one of the most beautiful villages of France. The beauty of the village and surrounding Alpilles, a small range of mountains, makes Les Baux de Provence a very popular place for visitors all year long.

The name Les Baux refers to its site - in Provençal, a baou is a rocky spur. Aluminum ore bauxite was first discovered near Les Baux in 1822 and named after the village of Les Baux de Provence. Bauxite was mined extensively in the area but by the end of the 20th century, the bauxite had been completely removed.

You have to pay to park your car near the village but parking is allowed for free along the road leading up to the village. Just inside, is the Maison du Roy - King's House, built in 1499. The King's House is now the home of the Office de Tourisme - Tourist Office.

As I mentioned earlier, the village of Les Baux de Provence sits on a rocky outcrop overlooking the plains to the south. The view is fabulous and it looks like it would have been very difficult for enemies to sneak up on the villagers.

The Musée des Santons - the museum of santons (santons are plaster-moulded, kiln-fired nativity figurines dressed in traditional Provençal costumes) contains a large number of exhibits including some figurines made in Naples, scenes illustrating the traditions of Provence and Les Baux linked to the Nativity and a documentary film on the manufacture of these figurines.

You can't drive through Les Baux de Provence as cars are prohibited so the village must be visited on foot.

As I walked around, I discovered that Les Baux de Provence is crisscrossed by narrow cobblestone streets lined with art galleries, cafés and shops selling souvenirs and products made in Provence.

One of the many narrow cobblestone streets.

I came across some beautiful old houses and facades.

Another narrow street and tourist shop.

The 12th-century L'église Saint-Vincent building is typical of construction in Les Baux with the church's southern section built half into the rock.

La Chapelle des Penitents Blancs on Place de l'église, was built in the mid-17th century by the Brotherhood of White Penitents. The chapel stands on the edge of the cliff overlooking the Fontaine Valley.

This graceful stone campanile, so-called lantern of the dead, flanks the north side of L'église Saint-Vincent.

A shop selling souvenirs from Provence; the streets were mostly deserted early in January except for a dog keeping watch. It was very different when I returned with friends in April.

One more cobblestone street to explore as I headed back to the parking lot and my car.

The day was overcast and cool the day I visited so I didn't walk to the castle ruins as I remembered going there in January several years before when the Mistral (strong cold wind) was blowing and it was bitter cold; so I decided to take a pass that day.

I did go to Les Baux de Provence and up to the castle ruins a few weeks ago with friends which I will tell you about in a future post. Bonne journée et à bientot.

Mas de Gourgonnier

As you plan your itinerary for your visit to Provence, I would encourage you to set aside time for a trip to the Alpilles region. The Alpilles are a small chain of mountains about 20 kms south of Avignon. They are an extension of the larger Luberon mountain range.

The Alpilles are the location of Les Baux de Provence and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence and were immortalized by Vincent van Gogh, who painted many images of the Alpilles during his time in Saint-Rémy on the north side of the mountains. Besides the beauty of the region, we go to stock up on rosé from our favorite winery in Provence.

At the base of the Alpilles, between Mouriès and Eygalières at Le Destet, one hour drive from Sablet, you will find Mas de Gourgonnier and its 45 hectares of vineyards and 20 hectares of olive trees.

The "Mas" (ancient farm house) dates from the middle of the 18th century and the land was planted with olive trees and fruit trees which were fertilized by flocks of sheep who grazed the land. Flocks of sheep can still be seen throughout the area.

In 1950, the first grape vines were planted at Mas de Gourgonnier and shortly thereafter a "cave" (winery) was added.

Since the very beginning, completely organic farming practices have been used for growing grapes and olives at Mas de Gourgonnier.

Red grape varieties grown in the vineyards which surround the Mas are grenache, syrah, cinsault, carignan, mourvèdre, and cabernet sauvignon. Red and rosé wines produced at Mas de Gourgonnier are classified as AOC Les Baux de Provence.

White grape varieties grown are sauvignon blanc, grenache blanc, and rolle. White wines are classified as AOC Coteaux d'Aix en Provence. The wineries in the region are trying to get approval to classify white wines from the region as AOC Les Baux de Provence too.

The Vallée des Baux is known for the production of high quality olive oil. Four varieties of olives are grown at Mas de Gourgonnier; salonenque, aglandau, grossane and verdale des baux. Olive oil pressed from olives from Mas de Gourgonnier are labeled AOC Vallée des Baux.

In addition to wine and olive oil, you can buy fruit juice, olive products, "Riz de Camargue" (rice from the Camargue). and salt from the Camargue in the tasting room.

We love the red Riz de Camargue which is grown on family-owned land and use it at Bistro Des Copains. The rice when cooked, has a wonderful nutty taste. At the Bistro, we serve it currently as an accompaniment to duck breast.

The delicious Rouge and Rosé wines produced by Mas de Gourgonnier have been on the wine list at Bistro Des Copains since we opened the restaurant nearly 4 years ago.

We visit Mas de Gourgonnier several times a year while we are in Sablet. It is very easy to tuck several bags of rice in your suit case between clothes. You won't have any problem with customs over the rice.