Nyons Market and Excellent Lunch at La Charrette Bleue Restaurant

We arrived in Sablet last Tuesday after being away for 5 months. We arrived too late to shop at the weekly market in Vaison-la-Romaine, which as faithful readers know, is our very favorite market in Provence. 

So on Thursday, we headed to Nyons (28 kms) on the north side of Vaison la Romaine in the Department of the Drome so we could wander around the bustling Provençal market that takes place in the center of town every Thursday morning throughout the year.

Nyons sits in a natural basin on the right bank of the Eygues river, surrounded by hills and small mountains, which provides shelter from wind. The town gets an unusual amount of sunshine, earning Nyons the nickname "Little Nice" for its great climate.

Probably the most famous historical monument in Nyons, is the "Roman Bridge," a single arch bridge across the Eygues river built in Romanesque style between 1341 and 1409. Until the 19th century, the bridge was the main access road into Nyons.

Roman Bridge, Nyons

The olive tree in the roundabout in the center of Nyons is a reminder that olives are celebrated in Nyons year-around with the Festival of Pitted Olives the weekend before Christmas, the Festival of New Olive Oil, the first Sunday in February, and Fête des Olivades, the weekend which follows Bastille Day.

We walked through the Saint Jacques gate, the only gate intact from the medieval defensive walls, to "Place des Arcades" and "Place de la Liberation" where the market was underway. "Place des Arcades" dates from the 14th century when it was set aside for markets and fairs in Nyons. The square gets its name from the arcades that surround the square.

Saint Vincent's Church with Saint-Césaire monastery and two nearby cemeteries formed the religious center of Nyons in the Middle Ages. Most of the modern-day Saint Vincent's Church dates from the beginning of the 17th century.

The bell tower of Saint Vincent Church

The most visible monument is the Randonne Tower topped by pyramid arches on which stands a statue of Virgin Mary. The tower was erected around 1280, and at the time was used as a keep and military prison for the castle. In the 19th century it was converted to a chapel and renamed "Notre-Dame de Bon-Secours".

Randonne Tower, Nyons

After we completed our shopping and visits to an olive mill and the Roman Bridge, we headed north to La Charette Bleue Restaurant, a roadside restaurant where we have enjoyed some excellent meals over the years.

The restaurant is located 8 kms northeast of Nyons on the road toward Gap in the small village of Les Pilles. Although it was a bit chilly, we had warm vests and chose to sit in the sun on the terrace in front of the restaurant. 

We perused the menu while we nibbled on little toasts topped with black olive tapenade. I went with the "Menu Decouverte", 3 courses for 35 euros and Shirley opted to go a la carte. My first course was a gratin of mussels. 

 

Cassolette of shelled Mussels in a garlic and parsley butter gratin

Shirley's first course was a warm flan of fresh goat cheese with mixed greens tossed in olive oil topped with an onion fougasse.

Warm flan of fresh goat cheese with mixed greens tossed in olive oil and onion fougasse

After debating between Fletan (Halibut) and Merlan (Whiting), Shirley opted for the Filet of Merlan that was pan sauteed, topped with onion beignets and fresh vegetables, and served with a lemon grass sauce.

Filet of Merlan

I was immediately drawn to the Canette de Canard (young female duck) pan roasted on the skin side. It was perfectly cooked rose just as requested. 

Pan roasted Canette de Canard

I chose the Opera cake and asked our server to bring two forks so we could share. Shirley wanted just coffee to finish. 

Opera Cake

We weren't up to a whole bottle of wine for lunch so chose one of the restaurant's half-bottle selections from Domaine du Moulin from Vinsobres. It was delicious and if you come across it on a wine list or store shelf, don't hesitate to choose it. 

Domaine du Moulin Vinsobres

This was an excellent meal, service was attentive, and we felt very safe/comfortable sitting outside on the terrace despite the pandemic swirling around the area. We agreed that we would try to return for another meal before we head back to US.

La Charrette Bleue
Route de Gap
26110 Condorcet
Tel: 04 75 27 72 33
Website: Restaurant Nyons - Charrette Bleue | Cuisine Régionale Créative (lacharrettebleue.net)

A Little Family Mystery about Le Barroux Resolved

Who doesn't love a good family mystery? 

My father Daniel Augsburger was born in Switzerland. His mother was French and at a young age, the family moved to the South of France. He came to the United States in 1939, just prior to World War II for college and pursue graduate degrees at the University of Michigan. 

Long story short, he never returned to live in France, met my mother Joyce at the University of Michigan and was offered an opportunity to teach, first at the University of Michigan then at Emmanuel Missionary College, now Andrews University in Berrien Spring, Michigan.

I was lucky over the years that I was able to travel with my parents along with sister Lydie and brother Dan as money permitted to visit his family living in France and Switzerland. I also got to live for one year in Strasbourg, France while he was on a study sabbatical. So we got to know our aunt's, uncles, cousins and other extended family members quite well.

I have looked at dad's Kodak slides and picture albums that record our trips to France and Switzerland many times over the years. A few years ago, my brother sent me CDs with pictures my father or someone else had taken of he and his family and some of he and mom at their wedding near Geneva, Switzerland. 

I learned from cousins back in 2014 that our grandfather had owned a house in Le Barroux, France. I am not sure if I ever saw the picture below before we bought our house in Sablet but it immediately caught my eye when I saw it on the CD because it showed it was in a town called Le Barroux. 

Image of Road Sign and House found on Augsburger CD

If I had seen the picture before, it wouldn't have meant anything to me because Le Barroux could have been anywhere in France or French-speaking Switzerland as far as I was concerned. However, since we have gotten to know the area around Sablet, I know Le Barroux is a small village (population 629 in 2017) set on a hill topped by a large 12th century castle just 13 miles from Sablet. 

Le Barroux Castle

We come to Le Barroux from time to time to hike around the village and to visit Sainte Madeleine du Barroux Abbey located outside of town. We also come to buy locally grown saffron as I told you about here. So when I saw the picture on the CD I was excited to confirm that my grandfather owned a house so close to our village and I like to think that my father probably spent time in the area. 

Sainte Madeleine du Barroux

The Le Barroux castle was built to oppose Saracen and Italian incursions and went through major rebuilding in the 16th and 17th centuries. The castle was damaged during the French revolution, was repaired in 1929 with private funds, set on fire by German occupation forces in 1944 as reprisal for acts of resistance, and restored again in 1960.

Le Barroux Castle

After failing to find the house when we first tried in 2014, I was eager to try again with the picture of the road sign from the CD as my guide to the property. So on October 6, 2018, with my cousins Jean Marc and Christine in tow, we headed off for Le Barroux to find the house or what was left of it. 

We arrived in Le Barroux and parked in the center of the village. We confidently walked up to the first person we encountered, a man walking on the street, who confirmed he lived in Le Barroux so told him what we were doing and showed him our picture. 

We were disappointed when he said he didn't know the village that well and these roads nor house looked familiar to him. He suggested we go see a lady who lived close by that he knew walks all over Le Barroux, maybe she would know where the house was located?

We knocked on her door and she opened. We explained to her what we were trying to find and why and showed her my picture. Turns out, she was born in the same town in Switzerland as my dad. She said she had an idea where these roads crossed and invited us in. She led us to her computer and pulled up maps of the area and pointed out where she thought it was and gave us some general directions.

We figured out if she was right that the house was out in the direction of the saffron farm we had previously visited. After a couple of wrong turns and ending up on a very little road, we found the sign for Chemin Aqueduc and Chemin De Bois Long. As I said it was a very little road and more like a path which is in fact the English translation for "chemin".

Matching Road Sign

From the junction where we stopped we could see a house that matched the one in the picture on the CD. Backed up to a forested area and vineyards all the way around the rest of the property, we could imagine why the property appealed to my grandfather. No one was around and it was hard to tell if the property was still inhabited or not.  

Le Barroux House

Le Barroux House

While we were standing there chatting about the area and house, a car drove up, it was our new Swiss friend from Le Barroux who had driven out to see if she was right about the location of the roads. 

Happy Cousins with Le Barroux House in Distance

This past July 27, Shirley and I drove to Le Barroux to see if we could find the property again. Shirley was quite sure she could, I didn't really have a clue besides being near L'Aube Safran. Thankfully, Shirley was right, she says women are better with directions because they have uterus homing device to find things.

One of the crossroads is called "Chemin Aqueduct" so I assumed that if we followed the path we might find an old aqueduct. Sure enough, after a walk down a dirt path off the main "Chemin Aqueduc" path, we found the remains of an aqueduct. 

Le Barroux Aqueduct

This was the remainder of an aqueduct built around 1840 by the Commune of Le Barroux. Le Barroux lacked water and the Commune built a 4 km long canal and this aqueduct to bring water from a spring near St Andeol. Only one arch remains, the aqueduct is unusual in that the canal rests on a circle rather than pillars. 

Le Barroux Aqueduct

I am happy this mystery is solved. I hope to find some family member who can tell me when grandfather bought the property, if there was a particular reason why he bought here and how long he owned it. I would love to know for sure if dad spent time at this house. I assume yes since he had this photograph in his very large collection of family pictures.

If you are thinking about a trip to the South of France including spending time in Provence, we invite you to visit our website. Our house is available for rent by the week or more. We still have weeks open in November and through the end of the year and in 2022 and beyond. You can reach me for further information by sending an email to chcmichel@aol.com. 

Let's Go to the Market in Vaison-la-Romaine

We look forward to Tuesday mornings because it is the day for the weekly market in Vaison-la-Romaine. That morning, rain or shine, always finds us leaving the house early for the trip to Vaison-la-Romaine. A trip to a market, especially this market in Vaison-la-Romaine is my favorite thing to do. 

Vaison-la-Romaine is 6 miles north of Sablet on a winding road and then left around the round-about across the Ouvèze River. You know you are close when you see the castle on the top of the hill.

Medieval Castle of the Counts of Toulouse that stands over Vaison-la-Romaine

After we park our car near the Notre Dame de Nazareth Cathedral, we head toward the market and past some of the Roman ruins that are in Vaison-la-Romaine. 

The Roman ruins lie in the valley on the right bank of the Ouvèze River in two main areas: La Villasse and Puymin. Some of the ruins of La Villasse are shown in the two pictures that follow.

The weekly market is a kaleidoscope of colors and smells of Provence with up to 450 vendors in the summer (pottery, arts and crafts, food stalls of all kinds, local fruits and vegetables, linens, soap, regional specialties, clothing) and spreads out over Place Montfort, the main square in the center of town and nearby streets.

Most of the fish, meat, cheese, fruit and vegetable sellers set up their stands on Cours Taulignan or on one of the cross streets. The market is an ancient tradition dating all the way back to 1483.

Most of the food stalls are located on Cours Taulignan in Vaison la Romaine

Vendor selling individual heads and braids of garlic from Piolenc

Apricots from the Department of the Drôme

Summer truffles and dried Cepes (Porcini mushrooms)

Stone fruit including peaches, nectarines, apricots and plums

A vendor selling paella to go

After we finish our morning shopping, me for fresh fruits, vegetables, cheese and fish, and Shirley for soap, pottery, linens, and souvenirs, we gather for coffee with friends at one of the cafes that line Place Montfort.

Cafes lining Place Montfort

Vaison-la-Romaine is separated by the Ouvèze River into two parts connected by a bridge built by the Romans in the 1st century AD; on the left bank is the old medieval town with the Castle of the Counts of Toulouse at the highest point and on the right bank is the ancient Roman colony and modern town.

Roman Bridge that links the lower town and upper town in Vaison-la-Romaine

Classic Renault Car parked next to us

If you are thinking about a trip to the South of France including spending time in Provence, we invite you to visit our website. Our house is available for rent by the week or more. We still have weeks open in November and through the end of the year and in 2022 and beyond. You can reach me for further information by sending an email to chcmichel@aol.com.

Walk Around Beautiful Historical Avignon

We went to Avignon so Shirley could shop so I took the opportunity to walk around and see what was new or different after our long absence.

One of the first things I noticed, this was the first time in a long time that the Opera - Theater of Avignon didn't look like there was reconstruction taking place.

Opera - Theater of Avignon

 The Opera - Theater of Avignon is located near the Pope's Palace on Place de l'Horloge. Built in 1825, it was rebuilt in 1847 after a fire. The Opera - Theater offers music, dance, theater and opera performances throughout the year.

The Pope's Palace is a historical palace in Avignon, one of the largest and most important Medieval Gothic buildings in Europe. One time fortress and palace, the papal residence was the seat of Western Christianity during the 14th century. Six papal conclaves were held in the Palace, leading to the elections of Benedict XII in 1334, Clement VI in 1342, Innocent VI in 1352, Urban V in 1362, Gregory XI in 1370 and Antipope Benedict XIII in 1394.

Pope's Palace

Next to the Opera - Theater of Avignon on Place de l'Horloge is the neo-classical town hall known as the Hotel de Ville built in the 19th century as a replacement for an older building.

Hotel de Ville

Only the 14th century clock tower remains from the original structure. The Gothic clock tower which gave the square its name was incorporated into the construction of the later Hotel de Ville.

Bell tower of Hotel de Ville

The bell tower of Basilique Saint-Pierre Church seen below is a 14th century Gothic Church in the middle of Avignon. The current church was built over a 3 year and 4 month's period and consecrated on 20 September 1359. It stands on the site of a much older church which may date back to the 7th century though the first texts mentioning the church date back to 1068.

Basilique Saint-Pierre Church

If you are looking for crepes, several good creperies are located on a shady square by Basilique Saint-Pierre Curch. If you are with kids who might not enjoy sitting through a multi-course meal, we recommend Creperie La Flourdiliz.

Creperies near Basilique Saint-Pierre Church

As our scheduled time to meet up with Shirley arrived, I headed to Place de l'Hotel and La Fourchette restaurant a few steps away. More about our meal there in a post to come.

Petit Dejeuner (Breakfast) in Sablet

This is living! Breakfast on the terrace in Sablet. Baguette so fresh and hot out of oven from Festival Des Pains it was hard to hold. Nutella, lavender honey and butter from Normandy secured from Chez Mimi et Alain in Sablet and cheese (Banon and Roquefort) from Lou Canesteou in Vaison-la-Romaine. 

Breakfast in Sablet

Life slows down for us when we are in Sablet. So grateful we can be here.

If you are thinking about a trip to Provence, we invite you to visit our website. Our house is available for rent by the week or more. You can reach us by sending an email to me.

Sunflowers in Provence.

As soon as we finished our drive around the lavender fields we started hunting for sunflowers, called tournesol in French

You may not be aware that despite the fact that you find postcards,  photos and paintings of sunflowers all over Provence, they are actually native to the Americas. Sunflower seeds were brought to Europe by Spaniards in the 16th century where sunflower oil became a widespread cooking ingredient.

Sunflowers have rough, hairy stems, and what most people call the flower on a mature sunflower is a flower head of numerous small flowers crowded together. The outer flowers are sterile and the flowers inside the circular head mature into seeds from which oil is extracted. 

Sunflowers

Sunflowers generally grow to between 5 and 12 feet tall and bloom from late June to the end of July with harvest occuring at the beginning of August. 

Sunflower field near Jonquiere

A common misconception is that sunflowers track the sun. In fact mature sunflowers typically face east and do not move. The leaves and buds of young sunflowers do change their orientation from east to west during the course of the day; once mature the movements stop.

Sunflower field near Mornas

You may not know that the Jerusalem artichoke also called sunchoke and topinambour, is a type of sunflower. It is cultivated in temperate zone for its tuber, which is used as root vegetable and delicious roasted or in soup.

Sunflower field near Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Its hard to not pull over to take pictures when you come upon a field of sunflowers. Sunflowers give off a sense of happiness, like little suns shining on a perfect summer day.

Sunflower field near Courthézon

If you are in Provence during July, make sure you stop and snap a picture or two of yourself in one of the sunflower fields you will surely pass by.

A Provencal Lunch at Le Girocèdre Restaurant in Puymeras

Puyméras is a small village on a hill a few km northeast of Vaison-la-Romaine at the northern tip of the Vaucluse near the border of the Department of the Drome. 

When you approach Puyméras coming from Vaison-la-Romaine, the village is visible on the hill surrounded by homes, vineyards and lavender fields. 

There are quite a few good restaurants near Sablet. We come to Puyméras to dine at Le Girocèdre Restaurant because they serve very traditional, in our opinion, Provençal food and there are always good fish and vegetarian options for Shirley. 

We usually find parking across the street from the village fountain and lavoir and if not there, a little further down the hill in a small grassy lot reserved for clients of the restaurant. 

We walk a short distance up the hill as if we were heading to Saint-Michel et Saint-Barthélemy Church, to reach the entrance to Le Girocèdre Restaurant. 

Le Girocèdre Restaurant is owned by the Trappo family. Father Roger, originally from Marseille, arrived in Puyméras in 1977. The name Girocèdre is a combination of 3 first names; his wife Gisèle, born about 9 km away as the crow flies in Veaux, Roger and their son Cédric, who is a native of the area. 

Diners are seated outdoors except during inclement weather or when temperatures drop before the restaurant closes for the winter break.

We were seated at a well-spaced table under a very large Tilleul tree. The daily menu is presented on blackboards. On weekends, the menu is a-la-carte.

For entrée (starter), Shirley chose a goat cheese and raw vegetables and salad plate. 

I chose one of my favorites entrées at Le Girocèdre Restaurant, a small cocotte of ravioles with a Morel mushroom sauce. Delicious!

For plat (main course) we both chose Cabillaud with seafood reduction served in a small pot with quinoa, tomato Provencal, roasted baby aubergine and ratatouille. 

For dessert, despite some fancier dessert offerings such as apricot clafoutis, we both chose a couple scoops of ice cream. 

We were so happy to see that nothing has changed during our long absence from Sablet due to the Coronavirus pandemic. Le Girocèdre Restaurant is definitely worth a visit if you are in the area. 

We recommend that you make reservations. At the present time, the restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesday for lunch. 

Le Girocèdre Restaurant 

Rue Portolet 

84110 Puyméras 

Tel: +33 (0) 4 90 46 50 67

web: https://www.legirocedre.fr