Thursday, April 17, 2025

Roussillon, Our Favorite Village in the Luberon and Most Beautiful

Friends and others headed to Provence often ask where they should go during a once in a lifetime seven-day visit to Provence. This a hard question as most visitors have only 6 days since they usually arrive on Saturday afternoon and depart the following Sunday. There are so many wonderful things to see.

There is something for everyone in Provence; there are amazing Roman ruins and medieval villages for history buffs, lavender, sunflowers and coquelicots (poppies) for artists, weekly marche hebdomadaire (open-air markets with tantalizing displays of fruits and vegetables), great restaurants for foodies, and world-famous vineyards for wine lovers.  

There are perched villages everywhere, summer music and theater festivals, bull fights and the Transhumance for lovers of spectacles, brocantes and vide-greniers for antique hunters, Mont Ventoux for amateur cyclists who want to test their skills on the most famous ascent on the Tour de France, the Dentelles de Montmirail for hikers and picturesque villages with beaches along the Mediterranean Sea. 

We usually suggest a visitors include a trip to the vibrant red-ocher colored town of Roussillon, one of five villages nestled in the Luberon hills which are classified as Plus Beaux Villages de France (Most beautiful villages of France). Roussillon is one of our favorite villages and just one hour from Sablet.

The Luberon stretches 35 miles along a ridge of rugged hills from Cavaillon in the west to Manosque in the east and from the town of Apt south to the Durance River. Much of the area including Roussillon lies within the borders of the Parc Naturel Regional du Luberon, a protected area with outstanding natural beauty.

Ocher colored houses outside Roussillon

Roussillon sits on the southern edge of the Plateau de Vaucluse above one of the world's largest known ocher deposits where 17 shades of ocher -- violet, blood red, orange, yellow, and everything between were once mined. 

Roussillon


Roussillon

Just a few minutes' walk from the village is the beginning of the Sentier des Ocres (Ocher trail). Ocher is a natural pigment in the sandy soil which form the cliffs around Roussillon. Iron oxides color the sands into shades ranging from yellow to violet. The mineral landscape shows the effects of erosion and mining work done by man.

Two different trails, one short, one long takes you through the ocher lands on a 30-minute or 60-minute walk. You can stay as long as you like. Information signs along the way describe the geology, flora and history of the ocher deposits in the Luberon. The trails take you past multi-colored ocher formations set against a backdrop of pine trees. There is a small admission fee. 

Ocher cliff outside Roussillon


Water fountain in Roussillon


Roussillon shop


Historical oil mill in Roussillon

Roussillon must have more restaurants per head of population than any other Luberon village. Most are clustered around Town Hall Square. A little lower down, with its dining room sailing out into the ocher void, is the more upscale David. 

View back toward Town Hall Square and shops and cafes along the street

The belfry was the ancient entrance into the fortified area called the Castrum. The belfry was renovated in the 19th century as a bell tower adjoining the church. The first street on the left takes you along the former watchman's walkway, which ran between the two towers on the rampart wall. There are great views of the village and surrounding area.

Roussillon belfry and clock tower

Saint Michel Church whose origins go back to the 11th century, originally faced the castle, inside the fortified walls. The church has undergone countless renovations over time, necessitated in part by its location by the cliff.

Saint Michel Church

Ocher only became a widespread, industrial product in the late 18th century when Roussillon native son Jean-Etienne Astier came up with the idea of washing the ocher-laden sands to extract the pure pigment.

View towards village cemetery from top of Roussillon


Archway view out over the Luberon valley

The Librairie (bookstore) in La Maison Tacchella to the left and the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) to the right in Town Hall Square, the main village square.

Town Hall Square

As you can imagine, the beauty of Roussillon draws crowds of visitors during tourist season. It is the most visited village in the Luberon after Gordes, a few miles to the west. Despite this, we have never had any problem finding parking close to the village.

We think its best to visit in the morning when the first sunshine of the day strikes the village, to see the glowing colors at their most stunning. Roussillon is fairly small, so it doesn't take very long to explore. So combine a visit to Roussillon with a visit to Gordes or other hill towns in the Luberon.

Town Hall Square Cafe


Mural painted on a Roussillon garage door

Don't forget your camera when you go, you will definitely want to take a lot of pictures. 

Monday, October 14, 2024

All My Friends in France Dream about Eating at this All-You-Can-Eat Buffet

About one year ago at this time (April 2024), The New Yorker Magazine published an article entitled "The Hottest Restaurant in France is an All-You-Can-Eat Buffet". Being a Foodie and person who attempts to stay current about the best restaurants, I immediately read the article.

The next thing I did was call Cousin Jean-Marc who lives near Montpellier France about 100 km from this All-You-Can-Eat buffet called Les Grands Buffets and asked if he had ever dined there. He said "no", but he has wanted to go there for a long time. 

So, we decided he would get us reservations for lunch in October when we would be back in France. To make reservations, you must go to the restaurant's website and enter your email address for a secure link to make a reservation online. A few days later, I got a message from Jean-Marc that we had reservations for 12:00 on Monday, October 7.   

On the appointed day, we departed from the cousin's house in plenty of time so we would not be late for our reservations. Les Grands Buffets is located in a large rec center built by the local government in the city of Narbonne.

Les Grands Buffets is owned by Louis Privat, a native of Narbonne. He sees his restaurant as something like the "Louvre of Dishes" and serves only what he considers to be traditional French food, in the style of Auguste Escoffier. In 2023, more than three hundred eighty thousand people dined at Les Grands Buffet. It is considered to be the highest grossing restaurant in France.

From the lobby of the rec center, you can enter a bowling alley, an ice rink, or Les Grands Buffets. We arrived a few minutes early, so we were invited to go to the bar and wait until we were called to be seated at our table. 

Les Grands Buffets has four dining rooms, decorated in different styles. We were seated in the tented room, which pays tribute to Louis XIV, including an original map from Jean-Baptiste Nolin, the official map maker of the King, engraved in 1697 to celebrate the completion of the predecessor canal to the Canal du Midi. 

Tables are set in a manner similar to a 3-star Michelin restaurant down to fish knives. Waiters' clear plates and serve drinks. 

Crystal surrounds this 7-layer lobster tower


Shellfish Station


Charcuterie Station


There are 5 Pates en Croute, meat pates wrapped in pastry dough and baked until golden brown


Cote de Boeuf with choice of sauces such as peppercorn, red wine, and bearnaise

There is a rotisserie, where guests line up in front of an open kitchen, and cooks in tall, round, pleated, starched white hats, prepare dishes ordered by the guests waiting in line. There is a list of twenty-six specialties that guests can choose to have prepared in front of them. 

Cheese "Platter" with 111 varieties certified by Guinness as the largest known in the world


More of the cheese "platter"


Made to order Crepes Suzette


Chocolate Fountain


There are 50 different choices of dessert


A table in the Tented Room


Shirley and me with cousins Jean-Marc and Christine in the Tented Room

Les Grands Buffets is open 365 days a year for lunch and dinner. The current all-inclusive price for a meal is 62.90 Euros per person. Drinks are extra, but they are sold at the same price as at the producer so there is minimal markup on champagne and wine. Everything else is unlimited. 

Last year, the city of Narbonne pledged fifteen million euros to renovating the rec center and creating a separate entrance for Les Grands Buffets. Privat committed five million euros to the creation of new attractions including a separate tea salon and shop selling regional products. 

As we plan outings with friends and family from around Sablet, so many have said they dream of going to eat at Les Grands Buffets. It seems that it has been featured on French television on more than one occasion. 

There is a note on the restaurant's website at this time that says "Reservations are currently not possible for meals after September 30, 2025, due to an overhaul of the Grands Buffets reservation software. Reservations for later meal dates are expected to open in July 2025. 

Les Grands Buffets
Rond Point de la Liberte
11100 Narbonne
France
Tel: +33 4 68 42 20 01
Website: lesgrandsbuffets.com

Saturday, October 12, 2024

A boulangerie in Faucon that serves breakfast and lunch throughout the year and dinner during the summer.

Faucon is a small village (population 452) on a hill, 7 km northeast of Vaison-la-Romaine on the border of the Departments of the Vaucluse and Drome with a magnificent view of the north face of Mont Ventoux. A fortified village, houses are built of stones from the surrounding countryside. 

We have been coming to Faucon on a regular basis since we bought our house in Sablet, usually to dine at Le Lauier Restaurant in the center of the village near the fountain. Two years ago, our dear friend Barbara from Vaison-la-Romaine, introduced us to Le Boulangerie des Tilleuls in Faucon.


Hilltop village of Faucon

The Boulangerie des Tilleuls (Tilleuls means lime trees) is located at Place des Tilleuls where you will discover Saint-Germain church and its 19th-century bell tower. The original date of construction for Saint-Germain church is unknown. The church was restored in 1668 and again in 1677. 


Bell and clocktower of Faucon's Saint Germain Church

Le Boulangerie des Tilleuls is seemingly set on a balcony where you have great views of the countryside. They serve petit dejeuner (breakfast) in the morning, plat du jour (daily specials) at noon, and dinner during the summer to take advantage of the terrace. They sell bread and variety of house-made savory and sweet tarts throughout the day. I think the rhubarb tart is particularly good.


Le Boulangerie

We normally dine on the terrace so we can take advantage of the views but when we went in late March, it was quite chilly, so we opted to eat inside the boulangerie. 


Chilly outside, so we dined inside on a long wooden table

This is simple food but everything we have tried has been delicious. I usually order one of the daily specials and sweet tart for dessert and Shirley orders a vegetarian plate which usually includes a slice of two different vegetarian tarts, a green salad and some olive tapenade. 

Typical vegetarian plate at Le Boulangerie

Le Boulangerie des Tilleuls food and baked goods are delicious any time. The setting makes it a very pleasant place to enjoy a relaxing lunch when the weather is nice or dinner during the summer months. We definitely recommend reservations during tourist season. 


My favorite dining companion

Le Boulangerie des Tilleuls is open Tuesday - Sunday throughout the year from 7h30 to 15h00 and from 7h30 to 23h00, June 15 to August 31. 

Le Boulangerie des Tilleuls
Place des Tilleuls
84110 Faucon
Tel: +33 4 90 36 12 91
No website

Thursday, March 28, 2024

Tulips grown in the Vaucluse for sale in Holland.

We just returned from a short sojourn in Provence after an unusually long absence for us. Sadly, this was the longest time between visits since we bought our home in Sablet in 2008. 

One of our favorite things about Provence are the fields of flowers and orchard blossoms that we find at various times of the year. There are orchards with cherry blossoms in April and early May all around the village of Venasque.

Then, red poppies, known as Coquelicots in France, make their appearance in May. Coquelicots generally grow wild rather than cultivated so you never know where you are going to come across them as you drive around Provence.

Lavender, the most famous flowering plant in Provence, blooms from mid-June to late July depending upon elevation. Sunflowers adorn the landscape from late June to the end of July and are typically harvested in August.

A few years back, we discovered that tulips are grown around Jonquieres, a small village about 20 minutes from Sablet. I am not sure if one person owns all the land where they are planted as the location of the tulip fields changes year to year.  

Dutch tulip farmers outsource growing bulbs to farmers in Provence. While the flowers are still in full bloom, they cut the flower with a lawn mower type machine to save the plant's energy for the bulbs.  The first few times we passed by the tulip fields, it did not appear that they sold any flowers. Now, signs indicate flowers are for sale.  

Since the tulips are in bloom in early spring, from late March to early April, we headed out one recent morning toward Jonquieres to see if any tulips were in bloom. The following pictures are what we found.


Jonquieres tulip field

We have been told that tulips are also grown in the triangle between Lurs, Forcalquier and La Brillanne in the Department of Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. Maybe the next time we are in Sablet in late March, we will head here to explore this area. 


Jonquieres tulip field


Jonquieres tulip field


Jonquieres tulip field


Jonquieres tulip field


Jonquieres tulip field

Another flowering plant we see at this time of year is Colza, in English, Rape Seed. The plant is grown to produce oil for cooking and industrial processes. In the United States, we know the edible version of this oil as canola oil. 


Field of Colza (Rape Seed)

Watch this blog for new posts about visits to new restaurants and villages during our most recent visit to Sablet.

www.sablethouse.com 

Saturday, March 23, 2024

Bistrot du Paradou

From the time I began to read the website Chowhound, a digital gathering place for obsessive food lovers, that started up 25 years ago, I learned about a restaurant loved by foodies and recommended frequently to those traveling to the South of France called Bistrot du Paradou. 

The Bistrot du Paradou is located 70 kms southwest from our home in Sablet in the tiny Alpilles village of Paradou, about 12 kms south of Saint Remy. Although, a fair distance from Sablet, it is a favorite of ours and everyone we take there. 

Because it is a distance away, we usually combine lunch at Bistrot du Paradou with a walk-about Les Baux de Provence or seeing the art and music program at Carrieres des Lumieres. The restaurant is located in a traditional building with blue shutters, shaded by ancient plane trees, just off Avenue de la Vallee-des-Baux.

The dining room is country bistrot in style; stone walls and floors, wood-beams on the ceiling, zinc-topped tables, a large bar and black and white photos of celebrities on the walls.


Our table at Bistrot du Paradou. Note two bottles of red wine and a chilled bottle of white wine.

Bistrot du Paradou offers a set menu every day that costs 60 - 70 Euros, depending on time of day that includes starter, a main course, cheese platter, choice of desserts, unlimited wine, and coffee.

The menu varies by the season and day of the week. Some of the main course offerings include calf's head, lamb chops, spit roasted chicken from Bresse, cassoulet, and aioli. They don't advertise it, but the kitchen usually has options available for diners who have food allergies or dietary preferences. 

We were among the first to arrive for lunch on our most recent visit. Within a few minutes, every table was full. No need for a wine list, when we sat down, there were two already open bottles of red Mont Redon Cote du Rhone sitting on our table. If you prefer, rose or white wine like Sylvie, just ask and your server will happily bring a chilled bottle to your table. 

Salads and soup starters are served family style. On our visit, the server said there was a choice of starters, either fresh asparagus or escargots in garlic butter.


Asparagus starter


Escargots with garlic butter


You must call to make reservations. I recommend you ask what the menu of the day is so you can let them know if anyone has a preference for something else. Since Shirley and Sylvie don't eat lamb, the chef offered cabillaud (cod) with a butter sauce with the same vegetables as the lamb chops.


Grilled local Alpilles lamb chops with artichokes barigoule and potato puree. 


Cabillaud (cod) with artichokes barigoule and potato puree.


After we wiped every drop of sauce from our plates, they were cleared, and a large wicker platter with cheese and jams and fruits macerated in brandy was set on our table and left for us to enjoy to our stomach's limit. 


Cheese platter


There is a selection of 8 or 9 desserts on a small chalkboard with a variety of ice creams on the back side. I chose the chocolate mousse. 


Chocolate mousse 


Sylvie chose the Baba au Rhum which was placed before her with a bottle of rhum to flavor the dessert according to her desires. 


Baba au Rhum along with bottle of rhum


One of the best parts of the meal is the air of conviviality that is felt throughout restaurant and meal. From the friendly wait staff, who sometimes breakout in song, to the open bottles of wines on your table, generous cheese platter, and offer of a digestive at the end of the meal. 


Terrace in front of Bistrot du Paradou. In summer, it is filled with tables and chairs for dinning al fresco

We definitely recommend making reservations in advance, so you are not disappointed after a long drive. You must do this by telephone as the restaurant does not have a website.

We are not the only fans. A few days ago, Alexander Lobrano in an article for the Wall Street Journal of April 12, 2024, entitled "The 10 Restaurants to Book Now in the South of France" included Le Bistrot du Paradou at #7. 

As we were getting ready to pull out of the restaurant parking lot, Bruno asked if we had ever been to the Moulin de Daudet in nearby Fontvieille? Since we had not, we drove down the road until the moulin seen below came into view.

Alphonse Daudet's mill, also known as the Ribet mill, or Saint-Pierre, was built in 1814 and operated until 1915, when the wheat was requisitioned for the war. In 1935, the Societe des Amis d'Alphonse Daudet restore the mill and dedicated it to the author. 

Daudet summered in the Chateau de Montauban and frequently climbed the hill to the rustic old windmill. The sweeping views of the Rhone valley and the Alpilles inspired his famous, folkloric short stories called "Lettres de Mon Moulin". 


Moulin de Daudet in Fontvieille

Le Bistrot du Paradou
57 Avenue de la Vallee des Baux
13520 Paradou, France
Tel: +33490543270
No website