Saturday, May 17, 2025

A Visit to the Vaison-la-Romaine Weekly Market in March

We look forward to Tuesday mornings because it's the day for the weekly market in Vaison-la-Romaine. That morning, rain or shine always finds us leaving the house early for the trip to Vaison-la-Romaine. 

Vaison-la-Romaine is 6 miles north of Sablet on a winding road and then left around the round-about and across the bridge over the Ouveze River. You know you are close to your destination, when you see the Medieval castle on top of the hill. 

Medieval castle in Vaison-la-Romaine

We generally park our car near Notre Dame de Nazareth Cathedral. From there we head toward the market. On the way, we walk past some of the Roman ruins which are located in and about Vaison-la-Romaine.

The Roman ruins lie in the valley on the right bank of the Ouveze River in two main areas: La Villasse and Puymin. Some of the ruins of La Villasse are shown in the picture below.

Roman ruins

The weekly market is a kaleidoscope of colors and smells of Provence with up to 450 vendors in the summer. Vendor stalls are mostly located on Avenue General de Gaulle, Cours Taulignan, and Place Montfort. 

Avenue General de Gaulle

On our most recent visit, I headed to the upper end of Avenue General de Gaulle in search of herbs and flowers for our terrace. 

Some of the plant vendors on Avenue General de Gaulle

I wish we had room on our terrace for a few Hydrangea plants.

Hydrangeas for sale

Herbs for sale

The market is a tradition dating back to 1483.

I get inspired to cook as I walk past tables piled with beautiful vegetables 


Market baskets for sale

Cours Taulignan


One of several vendors who sell olives, peeled garlic, and preserved lemons


A vendor selling cheese and charcuterie


Dry sausages of every type


Beautiful mixed greens and roquette (Argula)


Dried fruits of all kinds and homemade tapenade


First local strawberries from Carpentras


Olive oil and black olives from Nyons


Spices are sold in a manner that would probably not be allowed by US health departments


Our favorite fish monger. Fish are fresh and they scale and clean them perfectly. 


Vendors on Place Montfort

After we finish our morning shopping, me for fruits, vegetables, cheese and fish, and Shirley for soap, pottery, linens and souvenirs, we gather at one of the cafes on Place Montfort.

After shopping, we meet up at one of the cafes on Place Montfort for beverages

Vaison-la-Romaine is separated by the Ouveze River into two parts connected by a bridge built by the Romans in the 1st century AD. On the left bank is the old medieval town with the Castle of the Counts of Toulouse at the highest point and on the right bank is the ancient Roman colony and modern town.

Roman bridge in Vaison-la-Romaine

If you go to the market in Vaison-la-Romaine, we recommend you go early as close by parking fills up and the streets get very crowded with locals and tourists checking out the offerings of the vendors. 

I can't wait to return to the market this summer when the vendor tables will be overflowing with tomatoes of all colors and shapes, squash, stone fruit, and cantaloupes, to name a few of my favorite things. 

www.sablethouse.com 

Thursday, April 17, 2025

Roussillon, Our Favorite Village in the Luberon and Most Beautiful

Friends and others headed to Provence often ask where they should go during a once in a lifetime seven-day visit to Provence. This a hard question as most visitors have only 6 days since they usually arrive on Saturday afternoon and depart the following Sunday. There are so many wonderful things to see.

There is something for everyone in Provence; there are amazing Roman ruins and medieval villages for history buffs, lavender, sunflowers and coquelicots (poppies) for artists, weekly marche hebdomadaire (open-air markets with tantalizing displays of fruits and vegetables), great restaurants for foodies, and world-famous vineyards for wine lovers.  

There are perched villages everywhere, summer music and theater festivals, bull fights and the Transhumance for lovers of spectacles, brocantes and vide-greniers for antique hunters, Mont Ventoux for amateur cyclists who want to test their skills on the most famous ascent on the Tour de France, the Dentelles de Montmirail for hikers and picturesque villages with beaches along the Mediterranean Sea. 

We usually suggest a visitors include a trip to the vibrant red-ocher colored town of Roussillon, one of five villages nestled in the Luberon hills which are classified as Plus Beaux Villages de France (Most beautiful villages of France). Roussillon is one of our favorite villages and just one hour from Sablet.

The Luberon stretches 35 miles along a ridge of rugged hills from Cavaillon in the west to Manosque in the east and from the town of Apt south to the Durance River. Much of the area including Roussillon lies within the borders of the Parc Naturel Regional du Luberon, a protected area with outstanding natural beauty.

Ocher colored houses outside Roussillon

Roussillon sits on the southern edge of the Plateau de Vaucluse above one of the world's largest known ocher deposits where 17 shades of ocher -- violet, blood red, orange, yellow, and everything between were once mined. 

Roussillon


Roussillon

Just a few minutes' walk from the village is the beginning of the Sentier des Ocres (Ocher trail). Ocher is a natural pigment in the sandy soil which form the cliffs around Roussillon. Iron oxides color the sands into shades ranging from yellow to violet. The mineral landscape shows the effects of erosion and mining work done by man.

Two different trails, one short, one long takes you through the ocher lands on a 30-minute or 60-minute walk. You can stay as long as you like. Information signs along the way describe the geology, flora and history of the ocher deposits in the Luberon. The trails take you past multi-colored ocher formations set against a backdrop of pine trees. There is a small admission fee. 

Ocher cliff outside Roussillon


Water fountain in Roussillon


Roussillon shop


Historical oil mill in Roussillon

Roussillon must have more restaurants per head of population than any other Luberon village. Most are clustered around Town Hall Square. A little lower down, with its dining room sailing out into the ocher void, is the more upscale David. 

View back toward Town Hall Square and shops and cafes along the street

The belfry was the ancient entrance into the fortified area called the Castrum. The belfry was renovated in the 19th century as a bell tower adjoining the church. The first street on the left takes you along the former watchman's walkway, which ran between the two towers on the rampart wall. There are great views of the village and surrounding area.

Roussillon belfry and clock tower

Saint Michel Church whose origins go back to the 11th century, originally faced the castle, inside the fortified walls. The church has undergone countless renovations over time, necessitated in part by its location by the cliff.

Saint Michel Church

Ocher only became a widespread, industrial product in the late 18th century when Roussillon native son Jean-Etienne Astier came up with the idea of washing the ocher-laden sands to extract the pure pigment.

View towards village cemetery from top of Roussillon


Archway view out over the Luberon valley

The Librairie (bookstore) in La Maison Tacchella to the left and the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) to the right in Town Hall Square, the main village square.

Town Hall Square

As you can imagine, the beauty of Roussillon draws crowds of visitors during tourist season. It is the most visited village in the Luberon after Gordes, a few miles to the west. Despite this, we have never had any problem finding parking close to the village.

We think its best to visit in the morning when the first sunshine of the day strikes the village, to see the glowing colors at their most stunning. Roussillon is fairly small, so it doesn't take very long to explore. So combine a visit to Roussillon with a visit to Gordes or other hill towns in the Luberon.

Town Hall Square Cafe


Mural painted on a Roussillon garage door

Don't forget your camera when you go, you will definitely want to take a lot of pictures. 

Monday, October 14, 2024

All My Friends in France Dream about Eating at this All-You-Can-Eat Buffet

About one year ago at this time (April 2024), The New Yorker Magazine published an article entitled "The Hottest Restaurant in France is an All-You-Can-Eat Buffet". Being a Foodie and person who attempts to stay current about the best restaurants, I immediately read the article.

The next thing I did was call Cousin Jean-Marc who lives near Montpellier France about 100 km from this All-You-Can-Eat buffet called Les Grands Buffets and asked if he had ever dined there. He said "no", but he has wanted to go there for a long time. 

So, we decided he would get us reservations for lunch in October when we would be back in France. To make reservations, you must go to the restaurant's website and enter your email address for a secure link to make a reservation online. A few days later, I got a message from Jean-Marc that we had reservations for 12:00 on Monday, October 7.   

On the appointed day, we departed from the cousin's house in plenty of time so we would not be late for our reservations. Les Grands Buffets is located in a large rec center built by the local government in the city of Narbonne.

Les Grands Buffets is owned by Louis Privat, a native of Narbonne. He sees his restaurant as something like the "Louvre of Dishes" and serves only what he considers to be traditional French food, in the style of Auguste Escoffier. In 2023, more than three hundred eighty thousand people dined at Les Grands Buffet. It is considered to be the highest grossing restaurant in France.

From the lobby of the rec center, you can enter a bowling alley, an ice rink, or Les Grands Buffets. We arrived a few minutes early, so we were invited to go to the bar and wait until we were called to be seated at our table. 

Les Grands Buffets has four dining rooms, decorated in different styles. We were seated in the tented room, which pays tribute to Louis XIV, including an original map from Jean-Baptiste Nolin, the official map maker of the King, engraved in 1697 to celebrate the completion of the predecessor canal to the Canal du Midi. 

Tables are set in a manner similar to a 3-star Michelin restaurant down to fish knives. Waiters' clear plates and serve drinks. 

Crystal surrounds this 7-layer lobster tower


Shellfish Station


Charcuterie Station


There are 5 Pates en Croute, meat pates wrapped in pastry dough and baked until golden brown


Cote de Boeuf with choice of sauces such as peppercorn, red wine, and bearnaise

There is a rotisserie, where guests line up in front of an open kitchen, and cooks in tall, round, pleated, starched white hats, prepare dishes ordered by the guests waiting in line. There is a list of twenty-six specialties that guests can choose to have prepared in front of them. 

Cheese "Platter" with 111 varieties certified by Guinness as the largest known in the world


More of the cheese "platter"


Made to order Crepes Suzette


Chocolate Fountain


There are 50 different choices of dessert


A table in the Tented Room


Shirley and me with cousins Jean-Marc and Christine in the Tented Room

Les Grands Buffets is open 365 days a year for lunch and dinner. The current all-inclusive price for a meal is 62.90 Euros per person. Drinks are extra, but they are sold at the same price as at the producer so there is minimal markup on champagne and wine. Everything else is unlimited. 

Last year, the city of Narbonne pledged fifteen million euros to renovating the rec center and creating a separate entrance for Les Grands Buffets. Privat committed five million euros to the creation of new attractions including a separate tea salon and shop selling regional products. 

As we plan outings with friends and family from around Sablet, so many have said they dream of going to eat at Les Grands Buffets. It seems that it has been featured on French television on more than one occasion. 

There is a note on the restaurant's website at this time that says "Reservations are currently not possible for meals after September 30, 2025, due to an overhaul of the Grands Buffets reservation software. Reservations for later meal dates are expected to open in July 2025. 

Les Grands Buffets
Rond Point de la Liberte
11100 Narbonne
France
Tel: +33 4 68 42 20 01
Website: lesgrandsbuffets.com

Saturday, October 12, 2024

A boulangerie in Faucon that serves breakfast and lunch throughout the year and dinner during the summer.

Faucon is a small village (population 452) on a hill, 7 km northeast of Vaison-la-Romaine on the border of the Departments of the Vaucluse and Drome with a magnificent view of the north face of Mont Ventoux. A fortified village, houses are built of stones from the surrounding countryside. 

We have been coming to Faucon on a regular basis since we bought our house in Sablet, usually to dine at Le Lauier Restaurant in the center of the village near the fountain. Two years ago, our dear friend Barbara from Vaison-la-Romaine, introduced us to Le Boulangerie des Tilleuls in Faucon.


Hilltop village of Faucon

The Boulangerie des Tilleuls (Tilleuls means lime trees) is located at Place des Tilleuls where you will discover Saint-Germain church and its 19th-century bell tower. The original date of construction for Saint-Germain church is unknown. The church was restored in 1668 and again in 1677. 


Bell and clocktower of Faucon's Saint Germain Church

Le Boulangerie des Tilleuls is seemingly set on a balcony where you have great views of the countryside. They serve petit dejeuner (breakfast) in the morning, plat du jour (daily specials) at noon, and dinner during the summer to take advantage of the terrace. They sell bread and variety of house-made savory and sweet tarts throughout the day. I think the rhubarb tart is particularly good.


Le Boulangerie

We normally dine on the terrace so we can take advantage of the views but when we went in late March, it was quite chilly, so we opted to eat inside the boulangerie. 


Chilly outside, so we dined inside on a long wooden table

This is simple food but everything we have tried has been delicious. I usually order one of the daily specials and sweet tart for dessert and Shirley orders a vegetarian plate which usually includes a slice of two different vegetarian tarts, a green salad and some olive tapenade. 

Typical vegetarian plate at Le Boulangerie

Le Boulangerie des Tilleuls food and baked goods are delicious any time. The setting makes it a very pleasant place to enjoy a relaxing lunch when the weather is nice or dinner during the summer months. We definitely recommend reservations during tourist season. 


My favorite dining companion

Le Boulangerie des Tilleuls is open Tuesday - Sunday throughout the year from 7h30 to 15h00 and from 7h30 to 23h00, June 15 to August 31. 

Le Boulangerie des Tilleuls
Place des Tilleuls
84110 Faucon
Tel: +33 4 90 36 12 91
No website