Sunday, September 14, 2014

Visit to Avignon and Lunch at La Fourchette Restaurant

Avignon is 40 km southwest of Sablet, snuggled inside ancient walls along the Rhône River. The largest town in the Vaucluse, Avignon is very old, full of history, art, music and activity. You can spend hours wandering the narrow streets inside the fortified walls without getting bored. One day while Shirley and friend Kari were shopping for kids clothes, I wandered off to see what I could find.

Avignon is well known for its Festival d'Avignon, the annual festival of dance, music and theater founded in 1947. There are really two festivals that take place: the more formal "Festival In", which presents plays inside the Palace of the Popes and the more bohemian "Festival Off", known for its presentation of largely undiscovered plays and street performances.

The Palais des Papes ("Papal Palace") almost dwarfs the cathedral. The palace is an impressive monument and sits within a square of the same name. The palace was begun in 1316 by John XXII and continued by succeeding popes through the 14th century, until 1370 when it was completed.

Pope's Palace

Avignon is commemorated by the French song, "Sur le Pont d'Avignon" ("On the bridge of Avignon"), which describes folk dancing. The song dates from the mid-19th century when Adolphe Adam included it in the opera "Le Sourd ou l'Auberge Pleine" which was first performed in Paris in 1853. The opera was an adaptation of an 1790 comedy by Desforges.

The bridge in the song is the Saint-Bénézet bridge over the Rhône River of which only four arches (out of the initial 22) now remain. The bridge was built between 1171 and 1185, with a length of some 2950 feet, but was destroyed during the siege of Avignon by Louis VIII of France in 1226. It was rebuilt but was damaged frequently during floods and had to be continually repaired. Several arches were already missing before the remainder was abandoned in 1669.

Saint-Bénézet Bridge

The defensive walls were built by the popes in the 14th century and still encircle Avignon. They are one of the finest examples of medieval fortification in existence. The walls are of great strength and are surmounted by machicolated battlements flanked at intervals by 39 massive towers and pierced by several gateways, three of which date from the 14th century.

Avignon Defensive Wall

Notre-Dame des Doms Cathedral is a Romanesque building, mainly built during the 12th century. The most prominent feature of the cathedral is the 19th century gilded statue of the Virgin which surmounts the western tower. The mausoleum of Pope John XXII (1334) is one of the most beautiful works within the cathedral, it is a noteworthy example of 14th-century Gothic carving.

Notre-Dame des Doms Cathedral

Keep your eyes raised as you walk around so you don't miss the murals on building facades representing the Festival d'Avignon and statues of the virgin perched on corners of buildings around Avignon.

Building Mural Representing the Festival d'Avignon 

Building Mural Representing the Festival d'Avignon

Jean-Baptiste Poquelin, known by his stage name Molière, was a French playwright and actor who is considered to be one of the greatest masters of comedy in Western literature.

Statue of Molière in front of the Opera-Theater of Avignon

Near the Palais des Papes is the Opera-Theater seen below, built in 1825 on Place de l’Horloge. Rebuilt in 1847 after a fire, the Opera House offers music, dance, theater and opera performances throughout the year.

Opera-Theater

Next to the Opera-Theatre on Place de l'Horloge is the neo-classical town hall (Hôtel de Ville) built in the 19th century as a replacement for an older building. Only the 14th century clock tower (Tour de l'Horloge) remains from the original structure. The Gothic clock tower, which gave the square its name, was incorporated into the construction of the later Hôtel de Ville.

The City of Avignon sets up a traditional Provençal crèche with santons (Provençal: "little saint") in the Hotel de Ville every year. A santon is a small hand-painted, terracotta nativity scene figurine produced by artisans in workshops in Provence. The santons represent various characters from Provençal village life such as the baker, the winemaker, and the farmer wife with eggs.

Avignon Town Hall

Statue of Virgin Mary Perched on Corner of Building

Statue of Virgin Mary Perched on Corner of Building

The penitent brotherhoods were at their peak during the 16th and 17th centuries. The brothers were expected to help each other, do public penance, and perform good deeds. The brotherhood they belonged to was identified by the color of their sackcloth and the hood that covered their heads during processions. Each brotherhood had its own chapel. This is the chapel of the white penitents.

Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs

The Collégiale Saint-Didier Church seen below is a 14th century Gothic church in the middle of Avignon. The current church was built over a period of three years and four months and consecrated on 20 September 1359. It stands on the site of a much older church which may date back to the 7th century though the first texts mentioning the church date back to 1068.

Collégiale Saint-Didier

Entrance to Collégiale Saint-Didier

Inside, the altar is adorned by the stunning "The Bearing of the Cross", sculpted by Francesco Laurana for King René in 1478.

Interior of Collégiale Saint-Didier

As planned, we met up for lunch in front of La Fourchette Restaurant, a restaurant owned by Philippe and Danièle Hiély since 1982.

La Fourchette Restaurant

La Fourchette Dining Room

Chef Hiély offers a three-course menu with quite a few options for both starter and main course for 35 €. Friend Kari pauses for a picture while we wait for entrées (first course) to be brought to our table.


Kari

We are happily seated below at one of our favorite restaurants.

Shirley and Your's Truly

First courses;

Seafood Gratin with Greens

Salad of Green Lentils from Puy with Smoked Salmon with Gravlax Sauce

Main courses;

Scallops with Mango Sauce and Fennel Puree

Salmon fillet with a Cream of Red Pepper Sauce

Daube Avignonnaise

Desserts;

Café Gourmand

Profiterole

As we walked back to the car, we passed the "Belle Epoque" carousel at the top end of the Place de l'Horloge.


La Fourchette Restaurant is one of our favorite restaurants in the Vaucluse. The menu is relatively large for Provence and you know there is always going to be something you like on the menu. I am sure we will dine there when we are in Provence in a few weeks.

La Fourchette Restaurant
17 Rue Racine
84000 Avignon
Tel: 04 90 85 20 93
www.la-fourchette.net

Have a great week! Chat soon.

Sunday, September 7, 2014

French Family Visits Sablet and a Delicious Recipe

One of the things I look forward to in Sablet is visits from French family. In case you don't know, we bought our home in Sablet instead of other places we looked including Paris, Haut-Savoie, Côte d'Azur, Languedoc and Switzerland, because of the weather and proximity to French family.

On a beautiful Saturday last spring, cousin Jean Marc and family came to visit and have lunch prepared by yours truly. Before we sat down to eat, we went to Café des Sports for aperitifs. As I told you here, Café des Sports is owned by friend Bruno Bordeaux and is the center of activities in Sablet.

Family gathers at Café des Sports in Sablet

Anne-Emmanuelle and her partner Guillaume

Matthias and partner Aurélie

Jean Marc and wife Christine

Enjoying aperitifs on a short sleeve weather day in Sablet

After we soaked up some of the Provencal sun and aperitifs and caught up on the latest family news, we went back to the house for lunch. I prepared a restaurant style multi-course meal starting with an amuse bouche of soup made with the first of the season asparagus.

Asparagus soup amuse bouche

Our first course was a truffle risotto, redolent of the aroma of the fresh truffles I got at the market in Richerenche.

Truffle risotto

For our main course, I prepared a delicious Monkfish à la Provençale. I got the recipe from my friend Barbara who runs Cuisine de Provence cooking school, when she and her husband Robert entertained us in their beautiful home in nearby Vaison-la-Romaine a few nights earlier.

Monkfish à la Provençale

We served two of our favorite vegetable side dishes, haricots verts and zucchini gratin, with the Monkfish à la Provençale.

Monkfish à la Provençale with vegetable side dishes

No meal would be complete for French family, especially if cousin Jean Marc is there, without a cheese course. I picked up a variety, goat, sheep, and two cow's milk, cheeses for a cheese course from the wonderful Josiane Deal at her cheese shop Lou Canesteou near the main square in Vaison-la-Romaine.

Cheese course include Banon, Comté, Roquefort, and Époisses de Bourgogne

Cousin Christine brought desserts.

Dessert # 1

Dessert # 2

After our leisurely lunch, we headed out for a walk and ended up in Gigondas.

Shirley and cousins Matthias and Anne-Emmanuelle pause on the fountain near our house

"Monkfish à la Provençale".
Makes 6 servings

Ingredients

Monk fish fillets (enough for 6 people), cleaned, skinned and bluish membrane that surrounds meat removed before cooking. Ask your fishmonger to do this for you.
1/2 cup white wine
2 medium cans chopped tomatoes
2 medium white onions, halved and finely sliced
3 cloves garlic, very finely sliced
1 pound of cherry tomatoes
a handful of capers
olive oil, pepper and salt, red pepper flakes

Directions

Preheat the oven to 350 Fahrenheit

1. Cut the cleaned monk fish fillets into generous, chunky medallions and keep refrigerated until ready to cook.
2. Add a splash of olive oil to a pan, add the cherry tomatoes and sauté over moderate heat until they begin to soften. Let cool.
3. Add a splash of olive oil to a second, ovenproof pan that is large enough to hold all ingredients. Add the onions, garlic and red pepper flakes and let sweat over moderate heat until translucent.
4. Add the canned tomatoes, the wine and let bubble away for a few minutes until the sauce thickens. Season to taste.
5. Skin the cooled down cherry tomatoes, taking care not to lose any of their juice, then add to the sauce. Stir in the capers.

You can prepare the recipe up to this point so that just 20 minutes before you are ready to eat you add the fish medallions to the sauce (take care to cover the fish with sauce) then bake in oven for 20 minutes.

Monday, September 1, 2014

A Ladies' Hike in the Dentelles de Montmirail

OK, I will say it; Shirley enjoys hiking more than I do. Probably not a surprise to those who see us together. One day last spring, Shirley and friend Kari hiked up onto the Dentelles de Montmirail while I walked about our neighboring village of Gigondas and tasted wine at Domaine du Grapillon D'Or.

The Dentelles de Montmirail are short, steep mountains with a distinctive rocky ridge extending west geologically from Mont Ventoux which is located just to the east. When we go out onto the terrace off our bedroom in Sablet, we have a beautiful view of the Dentelles.

The name Dentelles, the French word for lace, refers to the jagged, rocky tops obtained by erosion, while Montmirail is derived from the Latin mons mirabilis meaning "admirable mountain" though the alternative connection with teeth, "dents" in French is equally good in my opinion.

The Dentelles de Montmirail mountain range is about 8 km (5 miles) long and runs from Vaison-la-Romaine on the north end to Beaumes-de-Venise on the south. The tallest peak of the Dentelles de Montmirail range is St-Amand, at 734 m (2,400 ft).

Time to get going, so we drove the short distance to Gigondas. While I wandered off to visit the village and taste wine, camera in hand, Shirley and Kari set off for the top of the Dentelles de Montmirail. The pictures which follow were taken by Shirley on their hike that day.

Dentelles de Montmirail. The little hole was their destination.

Signs point the direction for the top of the Dentelles de Montmirail

Scenic views on the hike

Dentelles de Montmirail

Dentelles de Montmirail

Dentelles de Montmirail

Dentelles de Montmirail

Kari makes it to the portal that looks out over the Dentelles de Montmirail

View over the vineyards from the portal

The ladies returned with a great sense of satisfaction and superiority that they had made it to the top. I didn't mind as I had a good time wandering around the village and dégustation at Domaine du Grapillon D'Or. I will show you what I saw on my visit and tell you about tasting wine at Domaine du Grapillon D'Or in a future post.

Have a good evening. Chat soon.

Sunday, August 31, 2014

Suzette, a little jewel of a village in the Dentelles de Montmirail.

We are getting close to the time for us to return home to Sablet for our fall sojourn so we have started to plan our day trips and visits to French family and friends and deciding where to taste wine and dine. It is critical that we get the latter two correct.

One of the scenic drives we take is the 62 km "Route des Vin" (wine road) that goes around the Dentelles de Montmirail with stops to visit one or more of the pretty wine-making villages along the way. The Dentelles de Montmirail are short, steep mountains with a distinctive rocky ridge extending west geologically from Mont Ventoux which is located just to the east.

Wine route around the Dentelles de Montmirail

One day early last spring, we were driving around the Dentelles de Montmirail when we arrived at the entrance to Suzette, a tiny village we pass through on the Route des Vins. We have passed through the village multiple times but had never stopped, so having some time, we decided this was the day to do so.

Entrance to village of Suzette

Suzette is a pretty name for a tiny village (population 120) sitting at 1300 feet elevation on the eastern side of the Dentelles de Montmirail surrounded by terraced vineyards of the Beaumes-de-Venise Appellation. The wine Appellations of Gigondas and Vacqueryas are nearby.

Cherry trees in bloom in Suzette with Dentelles de Montmirail in the distance

The village has one principal street that ascends up the hill and one restaurant. There is no boulangerie; villagers get their bread at “un dépôt de pain” in neighboring Lafare or at boulangeries in Beaumes-de-Venise.

Cherry tree blossoms in front of Notre Dame de Suzette

There is also a parish church in the village dedicated to Notre Dame built in a Romanesque style between the end of the 11th century and beginning of the 12th century. It is probably not a creation of the Templars as has long been claimed.

Notre Dame de Suzette

The little church, Notre Dame de Suzette, is almost without decoration. The plan of the church is a Latin cross. Notre Dame de Suzette epitomizes the simple elegance of Romanesque architecture.

Interior of Notre Dame de Suzette

Notre Dame de Suzette bell tower with Mont Ventoux in the distance

The territory of Suzette seems to have been occupied since ancient times. Gallo-Roman remains have been found at several sites: tiles, column shafts and coins from the reign of Hadrian (76-138 AD).

Suzette cherry tree

If you like to go rock climbing or hiking, Suzette is a great starting point for both of these activities.

Suzette vineyards with Dentelles de Montmirail in backyard

Views from Suzette

Views from Suzette

If you are making the tour around the Dentelles de Montmirail on the Route des Vins, save an hour for a walk around Suzette and visit to the little church. I hope you are enjoying your holiday weekend. Chat soon.