Domaine de Terrebrune, a Domaine worth Seeking Out in Bandol

You will recall that on the last day of our most recent sojourn in Sablet, I suggested to Shirley that we drive to the Bandol wine region and taste wine since we had not been there for several years. Also, it was a gloomy day in Sablet and I hoped the weather might be nicer near the Mediterranean Sea.

I emailed fellow blogger Tuula, Southern Californian raised, but now living near Bandol to ask "what are your favorite villages around Bandol"? She said Le Castellet is her favorite village, which I told you about here, and from there we went to La Cadière-d'Azur, which I told you about here.

After we finished walking around La Cadière-d'Azur, and we had not tasted Bandol wines, our primary purpose for visiting the area, we had tried at Domaine Tempier, but that Domaine is closed for tasting on weekends, so we decided to try at Domaine de Terrebrune in Ollioules.

As I told you here, we got to know some of the wines from Bandol including those of Domaine Tempier and Domaine de Terrebrune when we assembled the wine list for Bistro Des Copains, the French country bistro, now closed, I co-owned with friends in Occidental, California.

Domaine de Terrebrune Entrance

Domaine de Terrebrune is in Ollioules, a town on the eastern side of the Bandol wine appellation, framed by the Mediterranean Sea and a mountain called Gros-Cerveau (Big Brain), dotted with olive groves and scenic views.

Georges Delille, who trained as a sommelier in Paris, acquired the property that would become Domaine de Terrebrune in 1963. He spent the next ten years renovating the property; terraced hillsides, restored stone walls, and replanted vineyards following the advice of experts.

In 1975 Georges built a new subterranean wine cellar and in 1980, his son Reynald joined him after he completed his oenology studies and together they sold their first bottles of wine vinified from Domaine de Terrebrune grapes.

Domaine de Terrebrune

Today, Domaine de Terrebrune has 30 hectares (approximately 74 acres) planted in vines. The vines are planted on the terraces of the unusually named Gros-Cerveau (big brain) mountain and soils are made up of limestone and brown clay which was the inspiration for the name of the Domaine.

The Domaine is planted with Mourvèdre, as well as Grenache and Cinsault. Small amounts of Clairette, Ugni Blanc, and Bourboulenc is grown for the Domaine's Bandol white wine. Mourvèdre is king of grapes in the Bandol appellation, the berries are small with thick skins which give the wines their tannic structure and ability to be aged.

The Domaine follows organic farming practices and soil is worked regularly by plow and hand-hoes All grapes are harvested by hand, with sorting taking place in the vineyard instead of on a sorting table in the wine cellar.

Shirley and I in the Domaine de Terrebrune Barrel Room

The Domaine produces around 10,000 cases of wine a year including a dry Bandol White (Clairette, Ugni Blanc, Bourboulenc, from vines an average of 15 years old), a Bandol Rosé (50% Mourvèdre, 25% Grenache, 25% Cinsault, from vines an average of 10 years old), and a Bandol Red (85% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, 5% Cinsault, from vines an average of 25 years old).

They also make a Vin de Pays du Mont Caume Rouge “Terre d’Ombre” from declassified Bandol fruit from the Domaine's youngest vines. It is a blend of 80% Mourvèdre, 10% Grenache, and 10% Cinsault.

Wines ferment in underground, temperature-controlled, gravity-fed stainless steel tanks

After we finished tasting through the wines open for tasting, the tasting room manager took us through the wine underground cellar so we could see how Domaine de Terrebrune produces their wines.

Shirley in the Domaine de Terrebrune Tasting Room

The wines of Domaine de Terrebrune are excellent and definitely worth seeking out if you are in the area. We bought a case for our cellar. The Domaine is open daily for tasting and tours except for Sundays and holidays. The Domaine also has a restaurant called "La table de Terrebrune". We didn't get to try the restaurant but we will try to do so the next time we go to the Bandol area to taste wine.

Domaine de Terrebrune
724 Chemin de la Tourelle
83190 Ollioules
France
Tel: 04 94 74 01 30
website: http://www.terrebrune.fr

La Cadière-d'Azur, Perched Village in the Var Region

La Cadière-d'Azur is a small medieval village perched on the edge of a cliff on the hill across from Le Castellet in the south-west of the Var region.

After we finished our walk-about Le Castellet, that I told you about here, we decided that since we were in the area, we should cross the valley over to La Cadière-d'Azur and take a walk through that village as well.

La Cadière-d'Azur has a panoramic view to the Mediterranean Sea. It is surrounded by pine forests and overlooks some of the famous Bandol (AOC) vineyards including Domaines Bunan that we told you about here.

The first recorded mention of La Cadière-d'Azur is in the year 977. The village was in a territory ruled by feudal lords from the Viscounts of Marseille, and later the Abbey of St-Victor.

There has been evidence of Romans dwelling in the village from quite a few traces from Gallo-Roman times such as ceramics, coins, and amphorae (vessels used to carry wine and oil), being discovered in the region, including several Roman fountains.

La Cadière-d'Azur

There are three portes, or gates along Marx Dormoy Avenue that remain from the village's historic ramparts, Saint Jean's gate in the center (built in January 1561), the Mazzarine gate to the east, and the Colle gate pictured below to the west.

La Cadière-d'Azur Porte de la Colle

While there is no shortage of tourist shops, cafes, bars and restaurants in La Cadière-d'Azur, the village seems less like a picturesque artificial enclave than other villages in the area.

La Cadière-d'Azur Street

Saint André Church shown below was built at the beginning of the 16th century on the ruins of a 12th century church. Its tall hexagonal bell tower possesses the oldest dated bell in the Var region; 1458.

Saint André Church

If you are a wine lover, there are many options for tasting locally produced wine. Just off the freeway at the exit for La Cadière-d'Azur, you will find the La Cadiérenne wine coop, where you can taste wine from almost 300 wine makers. This wine coop which dates from 1929, is the biggest producer of AOP Bandol wines.

Pretty door in La Cadière-d'Azur

Tour de l'Horloge with 16th Century Campanile

Shirley standing by the Studded Oaken Doors of Porte Saint-Jean

If you are thinking about a trip to the South of France including spending time in Provence, we invite you to visit our website at www.sablethouse.com. Our house is available for rent by the week or more. You can reach us for further information by sending an email to chcmichel@aol.com.

Le Castellet, Perched Medieval Village in Bandol AOC

As we were approaching the end of our most recent sojourn in Sablet, I suggested to Shirley that we visit the Bandol region and taste wine since we had not been there for several years. I told you about our previous visit to taste Bandol wines here.

One of my favorite blogs is authored by Tuula, Southern Californian raised, but now living in the Bandol region. Her blog called "Belle Provence Travels" is about living and traveling around the South of France. Although we have not met in person yet, we have corresponded several times.

So I sent her a message to ask, "what are your favorite villages near where you live". She responded very quickly, that Le Castellet is one of her favorite villages. So on our last Saturday, we headed out for the almost 2 hour drive there.

Le Castellet is a picturesque, medieval village, perched on top of a hill around a castle from the 17th-18th centuries, which today houses the Town Hall, overlooking vineyards and the surrounding countryside directly north of the beaches of Bandol.

Originally a fortified town, the remains of ancient walls are still present so you enter Le Castellet through one of the fortified gates of the defensive walls into a maze of narrow cobblestone streets and pretty squares.

Le Castellet

Le Castellet is full of typical Provençal buildings. Beautiful old houses line the streets which have been carefully restored to highlight their stonework with brightly colored flowers cascading down their walls.

Bougainvillea, wisteria and fuchsias are everywhere with pots of geraniums and lavender outside the houses adding a touch of gaiety to this charming village.

Le Castellet Archway

Olive Tree

The first record of a settlement in this area is in 1030 when it was called Castellarium. Because of its strategic position, Le Castellet has been an important site in history and was inhabited by Celto-Ligurian for several centuries and later the Gallo-Roman empire.

In Medieval times, Le Castellet was a protected township belonging to Les Baux and King René of Anjou. The Lords and Bishops of Marseille ruled the district but authority was passed to the Lords of Castillon in 1434.

Le Castellet Tower

The Saint-Sauveur church of the Transfiguration seen below was built in 1030 by the Bishops of Marseille. In 1754, the church had become too narrow and was enlarged, the orientation was changed, and two Gothic vaults were added perpendicularly to the Roman axis.

Église de la Transfiguration du Sauveur

Le Trou de Madame (The Hole of Madame) opening in the ramparts offers a remarkable panoramic view including a view in the distance the massif of Sainte-Baume.

Le Trou de Madame

The Portalet gate was opened through the ramparts in the 17th century for the convenience of the Castellans going to work in the fields. The gate is easily recognized in different scenes of the film "The wife of the Baker" by Marcel Pagnol which was filmed in the village.

Le Portalet gate through Le Castellet defensive wall

The local vineyards and wine estates at the foot of the village produce renown wines of the Bandol AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée), one of the world's great wine regions.

While the region produces good-quality whites and rosé wines, Bandol's claim to wine fame rests in the deep, rich and intense bottlings made from Mourvèdre, a red grape that reaches its zenith in this region.

Mourvèdre does best in Bandol because it flourishes in the intense heat of the Mediterranean sun. Rainfall is less than 20 inches a year, and most of the vineyards are set in a bowl that encompasses a variety of exposures and terroirs.

Le Castellet War Memorial

Le Castellet House

Le Castellet Street

The Grand Portail gate is on the south end of Le Castellet and was rebuilt in the 14th century. For many years, it was the only access to the village.

Le Castellet Grand Portail Gate

There are plenty of shops in the center of the village including several art galleries and artisan’s workshops selling local pottery, ceramics, candles and leather crafts.

Le Castellet Shops

There are also several cafés where visitors can get a drink or meal, rest and visit on a shady terrace in one of the town’s squares.

Le Castellet Street

Le Castellet is also famous for the Paul Ricard racetrack built in 1969 by pastis magnet Paul Ricard, a few kilometers north of town. The racetrack will host the Formula 1 Grand Prix de France, June 26-28, 2020.

If you are thinking about a trip to the South of France including spending time in Provence, we invite you to visit our website at www.sablethouse.com. Our house is available for rent by the week or more. You can reach us for further information at chcmichel@aol.com

Le Castellet, a Beautiful Feudal Village in the Var

After spending Friday morning in Cassis wandering through the market and shops along the marina followed by lunch at Le Bonaparte Restaurant, we drove to Le Castellet, a small feudal village perched on the edge of a 820 foot cliff. The village is surrounded by Bandol AOC vineyards.

You enter Le Castellet through one of the fortified gates of the defensive walls into a maze of narrow cobblestone streets and pretty squares. The Church of the Transfiguration du Sauveur seen below was built in 1030 by the Bishops of Marseille. In 1754, the church had become too narrow and was enlarged.

Church of the Transfiguration du Sauveur

Le Castellet window

Le Castellet boutique specializing in lavender products

Le Castellet artist

Le Castellet shop

Friends Steve and Mary take a break in Le Castellet

Le Castellet building

Abandoned well and pond

Beautiful old buildings with brightly colored flowers cascading down their walls line the streets.

Le Castellet Street

Le Castellet shop

We quickly discovered that most of Le Castellet is on a slope that climbs up to the church and 15th century castle, where the town hall is now located.

Street up to Church of the Transfiguration du Sauveur

Flowering bush in Le Castellet

Le Castellet Bistro

Le Castellet streets are for pedestrians only. There are two parking lots near the village where you can park cars.

Le Castellet street

Shirley taking break in a Le Castellet square

The Grand Portail gate is on the south end of Le Castellet and was rebuilt in the 14th century. For many years, it was the only access to the village.

Le Grand Portail gate through Le Castellet defensive wall

Le Castellet shops

Memorial to the dead

There are plenty of shops in town including several art galleries and artisan workshops selling local pottery, ceramics, candles, and jewelry.

Le Castellet shops

The Portalet gate is on the eastern side of Le Castellet and was restored and enlarged during the 17th century.

Le Portalet gate through Le Castellet defensive wall

Cafe outside the Le Castellet defensive wall

Le Castellet is worth a visit if you are in the area to enjoy the sea or to taste Bandol wines. I would guess that the proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, it's only 12 kms away, means many of the shops and cafes stay open all year long. We'll be back.

Have a great week. Chat soon.