Avignon, City of Popes and Summer Festivals...Definitely Worth a Visit!

Avignon is 40 km southwest of Sablet, snuggled inside ancient walls along the Rhône River. The largest town in the Vaucluse, Avignon is very old, full of history, art, music and activity. I can spend hours wandering the narrow streets inside the fortified walls without getting bored.

We come to Avignon to shop for kids clothes and recently to visit the Nespresso Boutique, near Place de l'Horloge, to buy espresso capsules to take back to California, and meet up with cousins for lunch at one of the town's many restaurants. On our last visit, Shirley headed off to shop, she prefers to shop by herself, so she can do so at her leisure, and I went off to visit and take pictures.

Notre Dame des Doms Cathedral is a Roman Catholic church located next to the Palais des Papes in Avignon. The cathedral is the seat of the Archbishop of Avignon. It is a Romanesque building, constructed primarily in the second half of the 12th century. The bell tower collapsed in 1405 and was rebuilt in 1425.

From 1670 to 1672, the apse (where the alter is located) was rebuilt and extended. The building was abandoned and allowed to deteriorate during the French revolution, but it was reconsecrated in 1822 and restored by Archbishop Célestin Dupont between 1835 and 1842. The most prominent feature of the cathedral is a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary atop the bell tower which was erected in 1859

Notre Dame des Doms Cathedral and Palace of the Popes

The interior of the cathedral contains many works of art and the elaborate tombs of Pope John XXII and Benoît XII.

Interior of Notre Dame des Doms

The Popes' Palace is one of the largest medieval Gothic buildings in Europe. One time fortress and palace, the papal palace was the seat of Western Christianity during the 14th century. Six conclaves were held in the Palace and 6 French popes were elected, Benedict XII in 1334, Clement VI in 1342, Innocent VI in 1352, Urban V in 1362, Gregory XI in 1370 and anti-pope Benedict XIII in 1394.

It all began in the 13th century from a conflict between the papacy and the French crown, culminating with Philip IV of France's killing Pope Boniface VIII, and after the death of Pope Benedict XI, forcing a deadlocked conclave to elect the French Clement V, as Pope in 1305. Clement V declined to move to Rome, remaining in France, and in 1309, he moved his court to Avignon, where it remained for the next 67 years.

Palais des Papes (Pope's Palace)

The park known as Jardin des Doms sits next to Notre Dame des Doms Cathedral and can be reached via Palace Square. The park overlooks the Rhône river, the Pont d'Avignon (Avignon Bridge) and Avignon city streets. It’s a small climb but its worth it for the incredible views, manicured gardens, rock formations and sculptures.

The Monument aux Morts d'Avignon (War Memorial to Avignon) of World War 1 shown in the photograph below sits at the entrance to the walk-up to the Jardin des Doms. The monument was designed and sculpted by Louis Bottinelly from Carrara marble from Tuscany. It was completed in the fall of 1924 and inaugurated in November of that year.

War Memorial at Entrance to Jardin des Doms

View across Rhone River to Fort Saint-André in Villeneuve-lez-Avignon from Jardin des Doms

View across Rhone River to Villeneuve-lez-Avignon from Jardin des Doms

The Ramparts (defensive walls) were built by the popes in the 14th century and still encircle Avignon. They are one of the finest examples of medieval fortification in existence. The walls are surmounted by machicolated battlements flanked at intervals by 39 massive towers (see picture below) and pierced by several gateways, three of which date from the 14th century.

A Defensive Tower that is part of the historical ramparts of Avignon

View down the Rhone River to Pont Saint Bénézet, also known as the Pont d'Avignon

View of Notre Dame des Doms from the Jardin des Doms

Place du Palais (Palace Square)

The Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) is located on Place de l'Horloge, a short distance from the Pope's Palace. Construction began in 1845 and was inaugurated by the Mayor and Napoleon III in September 1856.

Hotel de Ville, Avignon

Avignon is well known for its Festival d'Avignon, the annual festival of dance, music and theater founded in 1947. There are really two festivals that take place: the more formal "Festival In", which presents plays inside the Palace of the Popes and the more Bohemian "Festival Off", known for its presentation of largely undiscovered plays and street performances.

Avignon Festival (photograph shot in July)

Avignon Street Musicians (photograph shot in July)

Saint John's Tower shown in the photograph below is the only vestige of the houses belonging to the Knights of Saint-John of Jerusalem. The other buildings were destroyed in 1898. It has 4 floors, but in the past had more. They restored the Tower and razed the houses which were massed for ages when the city fathers laid out Place Pie (Pie Square) in 1861.

St. John's Tower at Place Pie in Avignon

Saint Bénézet Bridge shown in the photograph below, better known as Pont d'Avignon, is a medieval bridge in Avignon over the Rhône River. A wooden bridge spanning the Rhône River between Villeneuve-lès-Avignon and Avignon was built between 1177 and 1185. This early bridge was destroyed forty years later during the Albigensian Crusade when Louis VIII of France laid siege to Avignon.

Beginning in 1234 the bridge was rebuilt with 22 stone arches. It was abandoned in the mid-17th century as the arches tended to collapse each time the river flooded. Four arches and the gatehouse at the Avignon end of the bridge have survived. The Chapel of Saint Nicholas sits on the second pier of the bridge. It was constructed in the second half of 12th century but has since been substantially altered.

Pont Saint Bénézet, also known as the Pont d'Avignon

When we met up for lunch, Shirley mentioned to me, "I think they increased the prices on the Nespresso capsules. It cost me a lot more this time". I asked her what they cost per capsule and I said that doesn't sound more expensive, how many did you buy? She responded "900". I said wow, that explains it, you only bought 590 last time. I guess it really goes without saying that we really like Nespresso coffee. The capsules are recyclable and that makes them perfect.

Avignon is a little confusing to navigate through and around in a car. We suggest you park at the Mercure Hotel parking lot if there is availability. From there you can easily walk around the town. If you have comments or questions about Avignon or elsewhere in Provence, please leave your comments below or send me an email at my address below.

If you are thinking about a trip to the South of France including spending time in Provence, we invite you to visit our website. Our house is available for rent by the week or more. You can reach us for further information by sending an email to chcmichel@aol.com.

A visit to Avignon and the Jardin des Doms during the Festival of Avignon

Avignon is 40 km southwest of Sablet, snuggled inside ancient walls along the Rhône River. The largest town in the Vaucluse, Avignon is very old, full of history, art, music and activity. You could spend hours wandering the narrow streets inside the fortified walls without getting bored

The historic center of Avignon radiates from Place de l'Horloge. Here, you will find the City Hall built between 1845 and 1851 on top of a former cardinal's palace. The old fortified tower of the cardinal's palace was retained and transformed into a belfry in the 15th century with clock and bellstriker. Next to it, the municipal theater, also from the 19th century, houses the Avignon opera and, at the top of the square, the "Belle Époque" style carrousel seen below.

"Belle Epoque" Carrousel

When we go to Avignon, we try to park at the Hotel Mercure garage because the stairs exit close to the Popes' Palace. Right next to the stairway, is the Hôtel des Monnaies (mint), the earliest private Baroque monument in Avignon. It sits opposite the main entrance to the Popes' Palace. It was built in 1619 by the Vice-Legate Jean-François de Bagni, and is dedicated to Paul V, the then reigning Pope. In 1860, it became the Conservatoire National de Musique. It was used as such up to 2007.

Hôtel des Monnaies

Notre-Dame des Doms Cathedral is a Romanesque building, mainly built during the 12th century. The most prominent feature of the cathedral is the 19th century gilded statue of the Virgin which surmounts the western tower. The mausoleum of Pope John XXII (1334) is one of the most beautiful works within the cathedral. During the 14th century this became the world’s most important church, home to seven different popes.

Notre-Dame des Doms Cathedral

Next to the Opera-Theatre on Place de l'Horloge (translated as "Clock Place") is the neo-classical town hall known as the Hôtel de Ville. As I told you earlier, only the 14th century clock tower remains from the original structure. The Gothic clock tower seen below, which gave the square its name, was incorporated later into the construction of the Hôtel de Ville.

14th century Bell Tower of the Hôtel de Ville is in the background

Street performers in front of the Popes' Palace

We had come to Avignon that morning primarily so Shirley and Stephanie could hit the stores. Since I didn't think the grandkids would enjoy that very much, Earl and I with kids in tow, headed for the Jardin des Doms.

A gentle five-minute stroll up a small hill from the cathedral, the Jardin des Doms offers a welcome refuge from Avignon's heat and bustle on a summer's day as well as panoramic views of the historical city, the Rhône River, Saint Bénézet Bridge, Villeneuve-lez-Avignon, Mont Ventoux and the surrounding countryside. It was fully landscaped as a public park in the 19th century.

View from Jardin des Doms to Villeneuve-lez-Avignon

The seven acre park is beautifully landscaped with shrubs and trees, statues of local notables and built around a pond which is home to ducks and geese. There are lots of benches, a picnic area and children's playgrounds.

Granddaughter Madison pulls Jilian in a pony cart, in the Jardin des Doms

Grandson Dylan in front of bust of Paul Sain, a French Painter born in Avignon

Fort Saint-André is a medieval fortress across the Rhône River from the Jardin des Doms that I told you about here in Villeneuve-lès-Avignon, dating from the first half of the 14th century.

Fort Saint André across the Rhône River in Villeneuve-lez-Avignon

Many of you know the French children's song, "Sur le pont d'Avignon" (On the bridge of Avignon), which describes folk dancing. The bridge of the song is the Saint Bénézet Bridge over the Rhône River that we visited here.

The bridge was constructed between 1177 and 1185 with 22 arches and was 980 yards long. It was destroyed by Louis VIII of France during the siege of Avignon in 1226. It was rebuilt beginning in 1234. The bridge was only 16 feet wide, including the parapets at the sides. The arches were liable to collapse when the river flooded.

The bridge fell into disrepair during the 17th century. By 1644 the bridge was missing four arches and finally a catastrophic flood in 1669 swept away much of the structure. Since then, the surviving arches have successively collapsed or been demolished and only four arches remain.

View of Saint Bénézet Bridge from the Jardin des Doms

Madison and Dylan enjoy a teeter-totter in the Jardin des Doms

Rocher des Doms

In 1309 Avignon, still part of the Kingdom of Arles, was chosen by Pope Clement V as his residence at the time of the Council of Vienne and, from March 9, 1309 until January 13, 1377, Avignon rather than Rome was the seat of the Papacy. In all seven popes resided in Avignon.

The Campane Tower seen below is part of the Pope's Palace and served as a storeroom for arms and precious objects and housing for the night watchman and some members of the Pope's close entourage.

Palace of the Pope's Campane Tower

As we leave the Jardin des Doms to return to Place de l'Horloge, we retrace our steps down a little zigzag ramp and cross over in front of Notre Dame des Doms Cathedral.

Side view of Notre Dame des Doms Cathedral with the Campane Tower behind

Granddaughter Madison with the backdrop of Notre Dame des Doms Cathedral

Statue of Christ on the cross in front of Notre-Dame des Doms Cathedral

A side view of a statue of Christ on the cross in front of Notre Dame des Doms Cathedral

Avignon is well known for its Festival d'Avignon, the annual festival of theater and performing arts founded in 1947. There are really two festivals that take place: the more formal "Festival In", which presents plays inside the Palace of the Popes and the more Bohemian "Festival Off", known for its presentation of largely undiscovered plays and street performances.

Street performers

The 2017 Avignon Festival took place from July 6 to 26. Over 40 different plays are performed in more than twenty venues, from small, 150-seat chapels to the 2000-seat legendary Honor Courtyard in the Palace of the Popes. As you walk around Avignon, you see flyers promoting one of the plays or musical acts everywhere you go.

Promoting a show

We didn't realize that groups go around to the various squares where there are restaurants including Place du Cloître St Pierre where we were having lunch at Crêperie La Flourdiliz, promoting their upcoming programs.

We were happily surprised that one of the groups that came by to promote their show was Quatuor Leonis with our friend Guillaume Antonini. It would have been fun to attend their show, but it didn't start until 22h30 and that was way too late for our group.

Quatuor Leonis promoting their show

A theater group promoting their show

Street performer

Since we were with the grandkids, we dined at Crêperie La Flourdiliz, a Brettone crêperie near the Pope's Palace rather than one of the places we go regularly since we didn't think the grandkids would enjoy sitting through a multi-course meal. We were perfectly positioned to see the various acts come through the square and promote their shows.

The family dining at Crêperie La Flourdiliz while watching the various acts perform

Whether in Avignon with or without kids, Jardin des Doms is worthwhile to include on your visit to Avignon. Have you been to Jardin des Doms, please let me know what you think.

Avignon, City of Popes and l'Essentiel Restaurant

California friends John and Lorelei arrived at Avignon TGV train station before noon, giving us time to make it to Restaurant l'Essentiel in Avignon for déjeuner (lunch). Long time friends and frequent diners at our Bistro Des Copains, we wanted to make sure their first meal in Provence was a good experience.

Besides, a visit to Avignon is always a good way to start a séjour (visit) to Provence. For any of you who don't know, Avignon sits inside its ramparts on the left bank of the Rhône river a few kilometers above where the Rhône meets up with the Durance river about 40 kms southwest from our house in Sablet.

Although we go to Avignon most often to shop and hang out on Place de l'Horloge, a long square in front of the Hôtel de Ville, with terrace cafés along both sides and a "Belle Epoque" carousel at the top end, Avignon is best known for the Palace of the Popes and the Bridge of Avignon.

Avignon is also well known for its Festival d'Avignon, the annual festival of dance, music and theater founded in 1947. There are really two festivals that take place: the more formal "Festival In", which presents plays inside the Palace of the Popes and the more bohemian "Festival Off", known for its presentation of largely undiscovered plays and street performances. This year's festival will take place from July 7 to July 28.

Across the Rhône river, the Palais des Papes (Palace of the Popes) sits next to the Notre Dame des Doms Cathedral. The palace was begun in 1316 by Pope John XXII and continued by succeeding popes through the 14th century, until 1370 when it was finished.

Many of you know the French children's song, "Sur le pont d'Avignon" (On the bridge of Avignon), which describes folk dancing. The bridge of the song is the Saint Bénézet bridge over the Rhône River of which only four arches remain. The bridge was initially built between 1171 and 1185 with an original length of 900 m (2950 ft) but it collapsed during floods and had to be rebuilt several times.

Notre Dame des Doms Cathedral is a Romanesque building, mainly built during the 12th century, the most prominent feature of the cathedral is the gilded statue of the Virgin which surmounts the western tower. The mausoleum of Pope John XXII is one of the most beautiful works within the cathedral, it is said to be a great example of 14th century Gothic carving.

One of the many narrow streets you can explore; this one leads to an arched gateway through the rampart walls. The ramparts were built by the popes in the 14th century to encircle Avignon. The walls are very thick and topped by slot shaped openings, flanked at intervals by thirty-nine massive towers and pierced by several gateways, three of which date from the fourteenth century.

Restaurant l'Essentiel is located a short distance from the Pope's Palace and Place de l'Horloge underneath Saint-Agricol's church. The Gothic church was built by Pope John XXII on the site of a very old church. The name of the church comes from a seventh-century bishop who is one of the patron saints of Avignon.

As those of you who have read my blog for a long time know, I like to go to restaurant's that have either been well reviewed by Michelin or Gault or have good ratings from diners on sites like Yelp and Zagat. Deciding where to eat is something I don't like to leave to chance.

We almost always have very good meals at restaurants in Provence that have been awarded a Bib Gourmand by Michelin and included in the guide to Les Meilleures Adresses à Petit Prix, meaning you can eat well for a good price. Restaurant l'Essentiel is the only restaurant in Avignon that is so designated.

Restaurant l'Essentiel is owned by chef Laurent Chouviat who is from Limousin and learned his craft with Alain Senderens at Lucas-Carton in Paris, Alain Ducasse at Louis XV in Monte Carlo and Jean Bardet in Tour. His wife runs the front of the house.

We were seated in the pretty dining room, the restaurant also has an inner courtyard for dinning al fresco on warm days. Almost as soon as we sat down, we were brought a platter of amuse bouche with olives and cheese biscuits to get our taste buds going while we contemplated the choices on the three-course menu for 29,00 Euros.

Our friends John and Lorelei.

To accompany our meal, we followed the suggestion of the owner's wife and chose a bottle of the 2008 Domaine des Tours, Vin de Pays Vaucluse, a very nice blend of grenache, counoise, syrah, cinsault, merlot, and dious, the latter a varietal I had never heard of before. Domaine des Tours is owned by the same people who own Château Rayas of Chateauneuf-du-Pape fame.

By the way, the glass below is not a wine glass but rather a wine decanter; I have never seen one like that before.

For our entrée (starter/appetizer), we all chose the Velouté de Butternut "Ile Flottante" Truffe-Châtaigne, Poireaux et Lentins de Chêne (Butternut squash soup) which was poured from a pitcher over the Ile Flottante topped by truffled chestnut slices in each bowl.

For our plats (main course), several chose Suprême de Volaille aux Pleurotes, Sauce Suprême, Pommes de Terre Écrasées à l'Huile d'Olive (chicken breast sauteed in butter and served with a cream sauce generously loaded with oyster mushrooms, perched on olive oil crushed potatoes).

The rest chose Filet de Daurade, Juste Raidi, Fini dans une nage, Gingembre - Feuille de Citronnier, Salade de Jeuness Poussses et Artichauts (fillet of Sea Bream, just stiffened, finished in a ginger citrus sauce and served with a salad of baby greens and artichokes).

Finally for dessert, we all chose Biscuit Coulant au Chocolat Noit, Un Sorbet à la Mandarine (molten chocolate cake with mandarin sorbet).

This was a very good meal. If you are visiting Avignon and looking for a place to eat, I suggest you try Restaurant l'Essentiel. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner except Sunday and Wednesday.

Restaurant l'Essentiel
2, rue Petite Fusterie
84000 Avignon
Tél: 04 90 85 87 12