Showing posts with label Rhone River. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rhone River. Show all posts

Saturday, March 5, 2011

Early morning walk in Arles

Very early one morning, after dropping friends off at Marseille Provence Airport for their 6:00 AM flight back to the US, I decided that rather than go back to Sablet, I would go to Mas de Gourgonnier to buy wine. Since the winery wouldn't be open for dégustation - tasting for several hours, I headed to Arles for petit déjeuner - breakfast.

Arles sits along the Rhone River about 75 miles southwest of Sablet. It is located just down stream of where the Rhone River splits into two parts (big and little) before it flows into the Mediterranean Sea. I had never been to Arles before so I had no idea where I would find a café or boulangerie where I could get coffee and croissants for breakfast.


As I explained, I had never been to Arles but recalled there are some Roman ruins, there is a bustling weekly market, Vincent van Gogh lived there and the town is the gateway to the Camargue, the vast Rhone River delta. When I don't know a town or village, I usually look for and follow the signs towards Centre Ville - center of town, which is where I headed that morning as I figured I would for sure find a café there.

The sun was up by the time I parked near the center of town. The narrow streets were largely deserted except for a couple of municipal streets cleaners. Nothing looked open yet so I decided to walk in the direction the sign pointed for the Arènes - Roman amphitheater.

As shown in the picture below, the streets of Arles are truly medieval in character: narrow and winding between ancient buildings.


The amphitheatre is said to measure 136 m (446 ft) in length and 109 m (358 ft) wide, the 120 arches date back to the 1st century BC. The amphitheatre was capable of seating over 20,000 spectators, and was built to provide entertainment in the form of chariot races and bloody hand-to-hand battles. Today, it draws large crowds for bullfighting as well as plays and concerts in summer.


A pretty house I passed on my walk around Arles.


Another narrow street, this one stair stepped in cobblestone


Church of Notre Dame la Major.


To the left in the picture below is the Roman theatre which was built at the end of the 1st century BC. The theatre is said to have been able to accommodate 10,000 spectators in 33 rows of seats.


Houses and shops around the amphitheatre including the café where I ate breakfast. The area was deserted early in the morning.


More houses with colorful shutters that caught my eye.


The Church of St. Trophime at Place de la République, formerly a cathedral, is a major work of Romanesque architecture, and the representation of the Last Judgment on its portal is considered one of the finest examples of Romanesque sculpture, as are the columns in the adjacent cloister.


Place de la République with the Hotel de Ville at the rear of the large square and the Church of St. Trophime on the right side. In the middle of the square stands an obelisk from Arle's Roman circus, moved to its present location in the 17th century. The lions at its base are the symbol of the town.


An archway leads to another narrow winding street.


A view of what remains of the Roman theatre in Arles.


Another view of the area around the Roman theatre.


As I got back to my car, I came across this interesting building.


I didn't try to avoid taking pictures with people in them.  It was just so early that I almost had the town to myself. Not too bad if you just want to wander around but don't care to enter buildings or historical sites or wander in and out of shops; something we like to do. So we will definitely have to return on a market day so we can get a sense of life in Arles.

Bonne journée et à bientôt.

Thursday, March 25, 2010

Tain-L'Hermitage

One of the things we like to do when we are in Sablet is visit new villages and explore new wine appellations. These are new only for Shirley and me since the villages and wine appellations have been around for hundreds of years.

We were headed north one day last fall to visit our cousin Anne-Emmanuelle and her partner Nicolas and see their newly purchased house in Moroges, a small village in the Côte Chalonnaise region of Burgundy.

Since our travel north on the A-7 would traverse the Northern Côte du Rhone, we decided we should stop and visit Tain L'Hermitage, center of the Hermitage Appellation d'Origine Controlee (AOC).



The town of Tain-L'Hermitage is located just west of the "autoroute" along the left bank of the Rhone River to the north of Valence about 1 1/2 hours by car from Sablet.

Wine and chocolate make Tain-L'Hermitage a favorite stop for food and wine lovers like us. Chocolate maker Valrhona is based in Tain-L'Hermitage and bars, sauces and powders can be sampled for free and bought in the boutique on Avenue du Président-Roosevelt.



In his wonderful book Adventures on the Wine Route, reknown wine importer Kermit Lynch says "If there is any single vineyard that the Creator obviously designed expressly for wine production, it is Hermitage."

Hermitage is one hillside slanted due south overlooking the Rhone River. The surface area of the Hermitage vineyards total 300 acres, the smallest AOC in the Northern Côte du Rhone.



Syrah is the only red grape permited in Hermitage AOC wines. A small amount of white wine grapes, up to 15%, of either Marsanne or Roussanne may be blended with the Syrah.

White wines from Hermitage are made exclusively from Marsanne or Roussanne grapes.



The best way to experience the Hermitage Vineyards is to hike up the hill through the vineyards overlooking Tain-L'Hermitage. A road under the railroad track leads to the base of the vineyards which cover the hill.



This is how you get to the Hermitage vineyards.



After eating chocolate, take a stroll along the Rhone River. The town of Tournon-sur-Rhone is on the other side.



You can take a pedestrian bridge, La Passerelle Seguin, across the Rhone River, to get to Tournon-sur-Rhone. Walking along the river in Tournon-sur-Rhone offer the best view of Tain-L'Hermitage and the Hermitage vineyard.

There are plenty of opportunities to taste wines in Tain-L'Hermitage.

We stopped in at M. Chapoutier on Avenue Dr. Paul Durand. As vineyard owners and negociants, they have a wide selection of wines from Hermitage and elsewhere.

Unfortunately, since we were expected at our cousin's house, we didn't get to spend a lot of time tasting wines or go anywhere else. We will definitely return soon.