Carpentras, Unknown Gem of Provence

Over the years, we have headed to Carpentras many times on Friday mornings for the year-round Friday morning market. Carpentras is a short 25-minute ride down the D-7 from Sablet.

As we get near, we see Notre Dame de l'Observance towering over Carpentras. The church was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century. It was established as a parish church in 1792. The church was restored at the beginning of the nineteenth century. 

Notre Dame de l'Observance Church

Carpentras is located along the Auzon River. Carpentras was a commercial site used by Greek merchants in ancient times, and known to the Romains, first as Carpentoracte Meminorum, mentioned by Piney, then renamed Forum Neronis ("Forum of Nero").

Pope Clement V made it his papal headquarters before moving to Avignon in 1309. Carpentras and this small enclave of Provence did not become part of France until 1791. Nowadays, Carpentras is the commercial center for Comtat Venaissin. 

The 14th-century Porte d'Orange, is a massive, fortified gateway on the north side of historic Carpentras. This is all that remains of the defensive wall which consisted of 32 towers and 4 gates. This last gate stands 78 feet high.

14th Century Porte d'Orange

Boyer Passage is a covered passage built in 1848 by the unemployed put to work by the Ateliers Nationaux ("National Workshops"). The street was built to connect the little Halles and the market.

Boyer Passage

As you walk around Carpentras, you will come upon Saint Siffrein Cathedral which was built on top of two previous churches; traces of one, a 13th century Romanesque church can be seen on the northern side of the apse. The Cathedral was constructed in Gothic style by order of Pope Benedict XIII. 

It took more than a century to build, from 1404 to 1519. One of the Cathedral's most unusual features is the south doorway known as the Porte Juive ("Jew's Gate"). This ornate doorway was designed as an entrance for Jews who wished to be baptized. 

The interior of the Cathedral testifies to the great artistic fervor during the papal presence in the Comtat Venaissin. Painted panels of the crowning of the Virgin, 15th century-stained glass windows, precious Genoan marble altarpieces, gilded wood sculptures by the Bernus family, outstanding wrought iron work by the Mille family, paintings signed by G. E. Greve, N. Migard, E. Parrocel and Carpentras artist J. S. Duplessis. 

Saint Siffrein Cathedral

Carpentras has hosted Jews since at least 1276, according to tax records from that time. Expelled from France by Philippe le Bel, the Jews took refuge in the Papal lands where they were safe and enjoyed freedom of religion. Carpentras was home to a large Jewish community in a neighborhood that did not become a ghetto until the end of the 16th century.

The synagogue in Carpentras is the oldest Jewish house of worship in existence in France today. The synagogue, built in 1367, has a Baroque-style interior and a gold-ornamented hall with a blue domed ceiling. The synagogue building includes a 30-foot-deep ritual bath, fed by turquoise waters from a natural spring, another heated bath, a kosher abattoir, and two communal ovens. The 18th-century sanctuary is on the first floor.

Jewish Synagogue

The 28 foot tall Roman arch in Carpentras is the only remaining structure from the Roman period. It was built in the 1st century AD under Emperor Augustus to commemorate the Roman victory over the Barbarians. The single arch is decorated with sculpted figures representing chained prisoners on its lateral sides.

Roman Arch

The memorial seen below honors the residents of Carpentras who sacrificed their lives or went missing during the Great War (World War I).

Carpentras War Memorial

 You can learn about the region's history at the new L'Inguimbertine museum and library set in the recently restored 18th-century hospital. The museum tells the story of the French popes and the protected Jews in Provence. 

Carpentras is also the birthplace of the Berlingot de Carpentras,  a pyramid shaped candy whose recipe dates back to Clement V, which you can watch being made at the Confiserie du Mont Ventoux. 

A Visit to the Vaison-la-Romaine Weekly Market in March

We look forward to Tuesday mornings because it's the day for the weekly market in Vaison-la-Romaine. That morning, rain or shine always finds us leaving the house early for the trip to Vaison-la-Romaine. 

Vaison-la-Romaine is 6 miles north of Sablet on a winding road and then left around the round-about and across the bridge over the Ouveze River. You know you are close to your destination, when you see the Medieval castle on top of the hill. 

Medieval castle in Vaison-la-Romaine

We generally park our car near Notre Dame de Nazareth Cathedral. From there we head toward the market. On the way, we walk past some of the Roman ruins which are located in and about Vaison-la-Romaine.

The Roman ruins lie in the valley on the right bank of the Ouveze River in two main areas: La Villasse and Puymin. Some of the ruins of La Villasse are shown in the picture below.

Roman ruins

The weekly market is a kaleidoscope of colors and smells of Provence with up to 450 vendors in the summer. Vendor stalls are mostly located on Avenue General de Gaulle, Cours Taulignan, and Place Montfort. 

Avenue General de Gaulle

On our most recent visit, I headed to the upper end of Avenue General de Gaulle in search of herbs and flowers for our terrace. 

Some of the plant vendors on Avenue General de Gaulle

I wish we had room on our terrace for a few Hydrangea plants.

Hydrangeas for sale

Herbs for sale

The market is a tradition dating back to 1483.

I get inspired to cook as I walk past tables piled with beautiful vegetables

Market baskets for sale

Cours Taulignan

One of several vendors who sell olives, peeled garlic, and preserved lemons

A vendor selling cheese and charcuterie

Dry sausages of every type

Beautiful mixed greens and roquette (Argula)

Dried fruits of all kinds and homemade tapenade

First local strawberries from Carpentras

Olive oil and black olives from Nyons

Spices are sold in a manner that would probably not be allowed by US health departments

Our favorite fish monger. Fish are fresh and they scale and clean them perfectly.

Vendors on Place Montfort

After we finish our morning shopping, me for fruits, vegetables, cheese and fish, and Shirley for soap, pottery, linens and souvenirs, we gather at one of the cafes on Place Montfort.

After shopping, we meet up at one of the cafes on Place Montfort for beverages

Vaison-la-Romaine is separated by the Ouveze River into two parts connected by a bridge built by the Romans in the 1st century AD. On the left bank is the old medieval town with the Castle of the Counts of Toulouse at the highest point and on the right bank is the ancient Roman colony and modern town.

Roman bridge in Vaison-la-Romaine

If you go to the market in Vaison-la-Romaine, we recommend you go early as close by parking fills up and the streets get very crowded with locals and tourists checking out the offerings of the vendors. 

I can't wait to return to the market this summer when the vendor tables will be overflowing with tomatoes of all colors and shapes, squash, stone fruit, and cantaloupes, to name a few of my favorite things. 

www.sablethouse.com 

Roussillon, Our Favorite Village in the Luberon and Most Beautiful

Friends and others headed to Provence often ask where they should go during a once in a lifetime seven-day visit to Provence. This a hard question as most visitors have only 6 days since they usually arrive on Saturday afternoon and depart the following Sunday. There are so many wonderful things to see.

There is something for everyone in Provence; there are amazing Roman ruins and medieval villages for history buffs, lavender, sunflowers and coquelicots (poppies) for artists, weekly marche hebdomadaire (open-air markets with tantalizing displays of fruits and vegetables), great restaurants for foodies, and world-famous vineyards for wine lovers.  

There are perched villages everywhere, summer music and theater festivals, bull fights and the Transhumance for lovers of spectacles, brocantes and vide-greniers for antique hunters, Mont Ventoux for amateur cyclists who want to test their skills on the most famous ascent on the Tour de France, the Dentelles de Montmirail for hikers and picturesque villages with beaches along the Mediterranean Sea. 

We usually suggest a visitors include a trip to the vibrant red-ocher colored town of Roussillon, one of five villages nestled in the Luberon hills which are classified as Plus Beaux Villages de France (Most beautiful villages of France). Roussillon is one of our favorite villages and just one hour from Sablet.

The Luberon stretches 35 miles along a ridge of rugged hills from Cavaillon in the west to Manosque in the east and from the town of Apt south to the Durance River. Much of the area including Roussillon lies within the borders of the Parc Naturel Regional du Luberon, a protected area with outstanding natural beauty.

Ocher colored houses outside Roussillon

Roussillon sits on the southern edge of the Plateau de Vaucluse above one of the world's largest known ocher deposits where 17 shades of ocher -- violet, blood red, orange, yellow, and everything between were once mined. 

Roussillon

Roussillon

Just a few minutes' walk from the village is the beginning of the Sentier des Ocres (Ocher trail). Ocher is a natural pigment in the sandy soil which form the cliffs around Roussillon. Iron oxides color the sands into shades ranging from yellow to violet. The mineral landscape shows the effects of erosion and mining work done by man.

Two different trails, one short, one long takes you through the ocher lands on a 30-minute or 60-minute walk. You can stay as long as you like. Information signs along the way describe the geology, flora and history of the ocher deposits in the Luberon. The trails take you past multi-colored ocher formations set against a backdrop of pine trees. There is a small admission fee. 

Ocher cliff outside Roussillon

Water fountain in Roussillon

Roussillon shop

Historical oil mill in Roussillon

Roussillon must have more restaurants per head of population than any other Luberon village. Most are clustered around Town Hall Square. A little lower down, with its dining room sailing out into the ocher void, is the more upscale David. 

View back toward Town Hall Square and shops and cafes along the street

The belfry was the ancient entrance into the fortified area called the Castrum. The belfry was renovated in the 19th century as a bell tower adjoining the church. The first street on the left takes you along the former watchman's walkway, which ran between the two towers on the rampart wall. There are great views of the village and surrounding area.

Roussillon belfry and clock tower

Saint Michel Church whose origins go back to the 11th century, originally faced the castle, inside the fortified walls. The church has undergone countless renovations over time, necessitated in part by its location by the cliff.

Saint Michel Church

Ocher only became a widespread, industrial product in the late 18th century when Roussillon native son Jean-Etienne Astier came up with the idea of washing the ocher-laden sands to extract the pure pigment.

View towards village cemetery from top of Roussillon

Archway view out over the Luberon valley

The Librairie (bookstore) in La Maison Tacchella to the left and the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) to the right in Town Hall Square, the main village square.

Town Hall Square

As you can imagine, the beauty of Roussillon draws crowds of visitors during tourist season. It is the most visited village in the Luberon after Gordes, a few miles to the west. Despite this, we have never had any problem finding parking close to the village.

We think its best to visit in the morning when the first sunshine of the day strikes the village, to see the glowing colors at their most stunning. Roussillon is fairly small, so it doesn't take very long to explore. So combine a visit to Roussillon with a visit to Gordes or other hill towns in the Luberon.

Town Hall Square Cafe

Mural painted on a Roussillon garage door

Don't forget your camera when you go, you will definitely want to take a lot of pictures.