Tuesday, June 10, 2025

Carpentras, Unknown Gem of Provence

Over the years, we have headed to Carpentras many times on Friday mornings for the year-round Friday morning market. Carpentras is a short 25-minute ride down the D-7 from Sablet.

As we get near, we see Notre Dame de l'Observance towering over Carpentras. The church was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century. It was established as a parish church in 1792. The church was restored at the beginning of the nineteenth century. 

Notre Dame de l'Observance Church

Carpentras is located along the Auzon River. Carpentras was a commercial site used by Greek merchants in ancient times, and known to the Romains, first as Carpentoracte Meminorum, mentioned by Piney, then renamed Forum Neronis ("Forum of Nero").

Pope Clement V made it his papal headquarters before moving to Avignon in 1309. Carpentras and this small enclave of Provence did not become part of France until 1791. Nowadays, Carpentras is the commercial center for Comtat Venaissin. 

The 14th-century Porte d'Orange, is a massive, fortified gateway on the north side of historic Carpentras. This is all that remains of the defensive wall which consisted of 32 towers and 4 gates. This last gate stands 78 feet high.

14th Century Porte d'Orange

Boyer Passage is a covered passage built in 1848 by the unemployed put to work by the Ateliers Nationaux ("National Workshops"). The street was built to connect the little Halles and the market.

Boyer Passage

As you walk around Carpentras, you will come upon Saint Siffrein Cathedral which was built on top of two previous churches; traces of one, a 13th century Romanesque church can be seen on the northern side of the apse. The Cathedral was constructed in Gothic style by order of Pope Benedict XIII. 

It took more than a century to build, from 1404 to 1519. One of the Cathedral's most unusual features is the south doorway known as the Porte Juive ("Jew's Gate"). This ornate doorway was designed as an entrance for Jews who wished to be baptized. 

The interior of the Cathedral testifies to the great artistic fervor during the papal presence in the Comtat Venaissin. Painted panels of the crowning of the Virgin, 15th century-stained glass windows, precious Genoan marble altarpieces, gilded wood sculptures by the Bernus family, outstanding wrought iron work by the Mille family, paintings signed by G. E. Greve, N. Migard, E. Parrocel and Carpentras artist J. S. Duplessis. 

Saint Siffrein Cathedral

Carpentras has hosted Jews since at least 1276, according to tax records from that time. Expelled from France by Philippe le Bel, the Jews took refuge in the Papal lands where they were safe and enjoyed freedom of religion. Carpentras was home to a large Jewish community in a neighborhood that did not become a ghetto until the end of the 16th century.

The synagogue in Carpentras is the oldest Jewish house of worship in existence in France today. The synagogue, built in 1367, has a Baroque-style interior and a gold-ornamented hall with a blue domed ceiling. The synagogue building includes a 30-foot-deep ritual bath, fed by turquoise waters from a natural spring, another heated bath, a kosher abattoir, and two communal ovens. The 18th-century sanctuary is on the first floor.

Jewish Synagogue

The 28 foot tall Roman arch in Carpentras is the only remaining structure from the Roman period. It was built in the 1st century AD under Emperor Augustus to commemorate the Roman victory over the Barbarians. The single arch is decorated with sculpted figures representing chained prisoners on its lateral sides.

Roman Arch

The memorial seen below honors the residents of Carpentras who sacrificed their lives or went missing during the Great War (World War I).

Carpentras War Memorial

 You can learn about the region's history at the new L'Inguimbertine museum and library set in the recently restored 18th-century hospital. The museum tells the story of the French popes and the protected Jews in Provence. 

Carpentras is also the birthplace of the Berlingot de Carpentras,  a pyramid shaped candy whose recipe dates back to Clement V, which you can watch being made at the Confiserie du Mont Ventoux.