There are towns and villages we happily visit time and again because of their uniqueness, proximity to historical sites, special markets, or cultural attractions. As Uzes has it all, a well-preserved chateau, cobblestone streets, 2 wonderful weekly markets, close to the Pont du Gard, and a Duke, it was an easy decision to meet cousins Jean-Marc and Christine in Uzes a few days ago.
Uzes is a well-preserved medieval town in the Gard Department on a promontory above the Alzon River. The old town, population 8,454, is surrounded by boulevards shaded by plane trees that have replaced the medieval defensive walls. Inside there is a maze of small streets and shaded squares lined with beautiful old houses and mansions from the 17th and 18th century.
Pictured below is the 12th century Bishop Tower which was the seat of the bishop's secular powers, used as a tribunal and prison. This tall square tower is topped by an octagonal clock tower and belfry added in the 19th century.
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| Bishop Tower (clock tower) |
The Saint-Theodorit Cathedral seen below, was formerly a Roman Catholic cathedral, but is now a parish church, named in honor of Saint Theodoritus. It was the seat of the Bishops of Uzes until the diocese was abolished under the Concordat of 1801 and its territory passed to the Diocese of Avignon.
The cathedral was destroyed during the Albigensian Crusades, rebuilt and destroyed again in the 16th century Wars of Religion and rebuilt again in the 17th century before it was gutted during the French Revolution. In the 19th century, a new west front was added.
The Fenestrelle Tower avoided destruction in 1621 and is the only part of the cathedral which survives from the medieval structure. The tower is built in the style of the medieval Italian Lombard towers and is the unique example in France of a round clock tower.
Saint-Etienne Church, the belfry can be seen below, was built between 1763 and 1775 on the location of an ancient church that was destroyed during the Wars of Religion.
The Duche is the defensive feudal castle standing in the center of Uzes old town. The castle was never attacked or damaged and is in very good condition. Uzes is the "First Duchy of France", France's oldest and most important ducal peerage. Uzes was made a Duchy in 1565.
The Bermonde Tower is the Duche's keep, built in the 11th century by Bermond 1st. The corner watch towers seen below were added during a restoration in the 15th century.
Since we had never visited the castle, we decided to take a tour of the areas open to the public. First things first, we began our visit by climbing 135 steps up a narrow drill-bit like stairway to the top of Bermonde Tower.
At the top, there is a wonderful view of Uzes. This day was sunny but very cold and extremely windy, the Mistral and all. I had to hold on to my glasses because I feared they would get blown off my face and sent over the side of the Tower.
The castle is a blend of architecture from the different periods of French history. It features 1000 year old wine cellar, feudal towers, ramparts, and both a Renaissance and 18th century facade. The apartments house fascinating collections of furniture.
Jacques de Crussol is the current duke of Uzes and owner of the castle. Born in 1957, he divides his time between France, Switzerland and Italy. Just like the Queen of England, his family's flag flies over the castle when he is in residence.
The castle's gothic chapel with its magnificent stained glass windows seen below is consecrated and masses are still held there.
The Uzes market is held every Wednesday and Saturday morning throughout the year on Place des Herbes and along the neighboring streets. With its fountain, arcades and terrace cafes, Place des Herbes is a great place to shop for regional specialties. Afterwards pause for coffee or a leisurely terrace lunch. Parts of Cyrano de Bergerac starring Gerard Depardieu were filmed there.
Despite all there is to see and do in Uzes, the Gard Department's most impressive attraction is a 15 minutes drive to the Pont du Gard, a short span across the Gardon River built by the Romans to bring water from the Eure Springs near Uzes to Nimes. The Pont du Gard is definitely not to be missed.
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