Gordes, France: A Village Perched in Time.

Perched dramatically on the southern edge of the Vaucluse Plateau in Provence, France, Gordes is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful villages in France. With a current permanent population of around 1,661, though that number swells significantly during the summer, this hilltop village captivates visitors with its honey-colored limestone houses that cascade down the hillside, offering sweeping views of the Luberon Valley. 

Gordes

Gordes traces its origins to the Celtic people known as the Vordenses, who built their settlement atop a rocky summit as protection against invasion. This need for security, driven by centuries of conflict, gave rise to the hilltop village you see today. 

In more recent history, the Vaucluse plateau surrounding Gordes became an active hub of the French resistance during World War II. On August 21, 1944, the village was bombed in retaliation by the German army, killing 20 residents - a sacrifice for which Gordes was awarded the War Cross with a silver star in 1948. 

The Chateau of Gordes, which dates back to 1031, was rebuilt in 1525. The well-preserved and carefully restored building combines architecture from the Middle Ages and Renaissance era. The chateau now houses the tourist office and offers a cultural space for exhibitions. 

Chateau de Gordes

Beyond its dramatic cliffside location, Gordes is renowned for the Senanque Abbey, a striking 12th century Cistercian monastery nestled in a nearby valley that is famously surrounded by vibrant fields of lavender. 

The village is also known for the Village des Bories (an ancient settlement of unique dry-stone huts) and the hidden, labyrinthine subterranean oil mills found deep within the cellars of Saint-Firmin Palace. 

Gordes War Memorial in center of village

Pretty building with bell tower of Saint-Firmin Church in background

Tourist shop next to entrance to Chapelle des Penitents Blancs (Chapel of the White Penitents)

Gordes gained international attention as one of the filming locations for my favorite movie, A Good Year, directed by Ridley Scott and starring Russell Crowe and Marion Cottillard. Based on the novel by Peter Mayle, the film tells the story of a London investment banker who inherits a vineyard in the Luberon Valley and discovers a slower, more fulfilling way of life. 

While much of the movie was filmed throughout the Luberon region, Gordes served as one of its most recognizable backdrops. The village's honey-colored stone buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, and dramatic hilltop setting perfectly captured the idyllic Provencal lifestyle portrayed in the film. Nearby vineyards, lavender fields, and country roads feature prominently, helping to create the romantic atmosphere that has inspired many travelers to visit the area.

The fountain in Place Genty Pantaly in Gordes

Shirley and me with friends sitting on the fountain in Place Genty Pantaly

A hat shop on Rue du Four in Gordes

The stepped, cobblestone paths in Gordes are called calades.  

The view from the overlook in Gordes

Stonewall around a hotel in Gordes

Whether you're drawn by the breathtaking panoramic views of the Luberon Valley or the maze of ancient cobblestone streets, Gordes rewards every traveler who makes the journey. Perched a little over 1,100 feet above the valley floor, the village is so fiercely protected that all new buildings must be built of stone and only terracotta roof tiles are permitted.  

If you are planning a visit to Provence, our home in the medieval village of Sablet offers the perfect combination of authentic Provencal charm and modern comfort. This beautifully restored 17th-century stone house is located in the heart of one of Provence's most picturesque wine villages, just steps from cafes, restaurants, bakery, and the village church. 

With three large bedrooms, three bathrooms, air conditioning, a chef's kitchen, and sunny terraces, it is an ideal base for couples, families, or friends exploring the region. From Sablet, you can easily visit the famous hilltop villages of the Vaucluse, the vineyards of the Cotes du Rhone, the Roman ruins of Vaison-la-Romaine, Mont Ventoux, Avignon, and the Dentelles de Montmirail.

After a day of sightseeing, return home to enjoy a glass of local wine on the terrace and experience the relaxed pace of life in a genuine Provencal village.

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A delicious lunch with amazing views at La Table du Ventoux in Crillon le Brave.

Lunch at La Table du Ventoux is one of those meals that perfectly captures the magic of Provence. Perched high above the valley floor, with sweeping views towards Bedoin and majestic Mont Ventoux, lunch at La Table du Ventoux feels less like a simple lunch and more like a grand experience. 

Hotel Crillon le Brave

Hotel Crillon le Brave was created from a collection of beautifully restored historic buildings woven into the tiny hilltop village of Crillon le Brave. Many of the hotel's buildings date from the 17th and 18th centuries and once served as family homes, a school, a presbytery, artist studios, and other village structures.

Walk up to village church

Passageway to Table du Ventoux restaurant

La Table du Ventoux is the signature restaurant of Hotel Crillon le Brave. The restaurant is known as much for its spectacular terrace views over the valley and toward Mont Ventoux as it is for its refined Provencal cuisine. 

View from the dining room terrace at Table du Ventoux

View over the valley from the dining room terrace at Table du Ventoux

Our table of four began by sharing delicate white asparagus from nearby Mazan and silky hummus made from local chickpeas with an herb vinaigrette and house-made pita bread. The restaurant has a well-chosen list of wines by the glass. I opted for a glass of the white Clos Sainte Magdeleine, Cassis 2023. 

Our terrace dining spot

For our main course, we all chose the house-made gnocchi with mushroom sauce. Pan seared and bathed in a savory mushroom sauce. They were absolutely delicious. 

House made gnocchi with mushroom sauce

To finish, the restaurant offers an all-you-can-eat dessert buffet for 10 Euros and a selection of ice creams. 

Dessert buffet at Table du Ventoux restaurant

My selections from the dessert bar

The village of Crillon le Brave you see today largely developed during the Middle Ages as a fortified hilltop settlement, built for defense and to oversee the fertile plains below Mont Ventoux. 

The "le Brave" portion of the name was added in the late 19th century in honor of the famous soldier Louis des Balbes de Berton de Crillon, known as "Le Brave Crillon," a celebrated general under Henry IV.

Town Hall in Crillon Le Brave

Gazing out over the valley toward Bedoin and majestic Mont Ventoux, it became clear that La Table du Ventoux doesn't just serve an excellent lunch -- it serves one of the most breathtaking views in all of Provence.

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Menton, a colorful town and citrus capitol of France

Menton is a picturesque town located on the French Riviera, at the far southeastern edge of France, just a few miles from the Italian boarder and about 20 miles east of Nice.

With a population of roughly 30,000 residents, Menton enjoys a mild, sunny climate that is considered one of the warmest on the Cote d'Azur.

The town is famous for its colorful old quarter climbing up the hillside above the harbor, its elegant Belle Epoque architecture, lush gardens, and relaxed atmosphere that feels distinctly more Italian than many other Riviera towns.

Historically, Menton was part of the Principality of Monaco for centuries before becoming French in the 19th century. Because of its unique microclimate, the town became a fashionable winter resort for wealthy British and Russian visitors during the late 1800s and early 1900s. 

Today, Menton is especially famous for its lemons and other types of citrus groves, celebrated every February during the internationally known Fete du Citron, when enormous sculptures and parade floats are built entirely from lemons and oranges. 

Les Halles de Menton, commonly called the Menton Market Hall, shown below, is one of the town's most beloved gathering places and a centerpiece of daily life in Menton.

Located near the old harbor and just below the colorful old town, the covered market was built in 1898 in a classic Belle Epoque style with ironwork architecture typical of southern France market halls of that era. 

Menton Market Hall

Tea Time Boutique

Menton Tile Fresco Mural

Busy Menton street

Menton street that leads to the top of the town.

Shirley descending a stone Menton stairway Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange is the architectural and spiritual centerpiece of Menton, dramatically perched high above the old town overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Built primarily during the 17th and early 18th centuries in an ornate Italian Baroque style, the basilica reflects Menton's long historical ties to the Italian states and the Principality of Monaco before the town became part of France. Its striking bell tower, pastel-colored facade, and sweeping staircase rising from the Place de la Conception create one of the most recognizable views on the French Riviera.

Basilica Saint-Michel-Archange

The beautiful stonework and pebble mosaic paving in Place de la Conception is one of the most distinctive features of old Menton. The square, directly below the Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange, is paved in traditional Mediterranean mosaic patterns made from carefully arranged rounded beach pebbles and natural stones. 

Stonework and pebble mosaic paving in Place de la Conception

Inside the Basilique, you will find richly decorated chapels, marble alters, frescoes, and a grand organ.

Interior of Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange

Looking down on the beach from Place de la Conception

Shirley and I overlooking the Menton harbor from Place de la Conception

Menton street at top of town

Belltowers of Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange

View of Menton harbor and Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange bell towers

Another view of the Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange bell towers

Street leading down to Menton harbor

The Tarte Mentonnaise is a dessert specialty from Menton. The tart generally consists of a delicate buttery pastry crust filled with a rich lemon cream or custard made from fresh lemon juice, zest, eggs, sugar, and butter. Some versions like the one sold below are topped with meringue. I highly recommend you seek out this shop if you are in Menton. Their tarts are delicious.

La Tarte Mentonnaise boutique Menton is all about lemons. You can find shops whose specialty is Limoncello and Mandarincello liqueurs.  Others, like the shop below focus on Eau de Menton. Eau de Menton is a citrus-based eau de toilette created in 1947 in Menton by perfumer Louis Berneux. The fragrance was inspired by Menton's world famous lemons and the sunny climate of the Cote d'Azur.

Eau de Menton boutique

Menton War Memorial

This was our first visit to Menton.  We found that Menton offers the beauty and glamour of the French Riviera in a setting that feels more authentic, relaxed, and intimate than many of the other resort cities. You can stroll through the streets of the medieval old town, enjoy quieter, less crowded beaches, and experience a slower more authentic pace than other towns on the Riviera. We highly recommend that you include it on your trip to the French Riviera. www.sablethouse.com

Saint Paul de Vence, a gem of a hilltop village

Saint-Paul-de-Vence is a fortified medieval hilltop village in southeastern France, located between Nice and Cannes on the French Riviera. Perched above the Mediterranean coast, the village has a population of roughly 3,500 residents and is considered one of the most beautiful and historically well-preserved villages in Provence. 

Originally founded in the Middle Ages, Saint-Paul-de-Vence became strategically important because of its elevated position overlooking the surrounding countryside. In the 16th century, King Francois I strengthened the village's defensive ramparts, many of which still surround the old town today. It's narrow cobblestone streets, stone houses, fountains, and art-filled squares preserve much of its medieval character. 

The village is famous for its connection to art and culture. During the 20th century, Saint-Paul-de-Vence attracted celebrated artists, writers, and actors including Marc Chagall, Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, and Yves Montand. It is home to the renowned Fondation Maeght modern art museum and the legendary La Colombe d'Or, an inn famous for displaying original artworks donated by artists who stayed there. 

Today, Saint-Paul-de-Vence is known for its art galleries, Provencal charm, spectacular views, and vibrant cafe culture, making it one of the most visited villages on the Cote d'Azur.

 

Saint-Paul-de-Vence Cafe

Entrance to Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Chapelle Sainte-Claire

The game of Boules, also known as Pétanque, originated in Provence in the early 20th century and is traditionally played on gravel or packed dirt courts. Players stand inside a circle and toss steel balls as close as possible to a small wooden target ball called the cochonnet ("little pig"). The game remains an important part of Provencal social life, often played in village squares beneath plane trees alongside cafes and outdoor terraces.

Friends play boules on a Saint-Paul-de-Vence square

Covered Passageway in Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Shirley and I in Saint-Paul-de-Vence

White Penitents Chapel

The tower of the main parish church in the village.

Village shop

Village fountain

Saint-Paul-de-Vence cemetery where artist Marc Chagall is buried

View of the Alps from the village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence

Saint-Paul-de-Vence War Memorial

Saint-Paul-de-Vence Ramparts

Horse statue in Saint-Paul-de-Vence

We definitely recommend you drive up the road to Saint-Paul-de-Vence if you are spending time around Nice. The trip is about 20 km and usually takes 30-45 minutes, depending on traffic. From Nice, you typically leave the coast and gradually climb inland through hills covered with cypress, olive trees, villas, and stone walls. Parking is generally outside the village, after which visitors walk into the village through the ancient walls.

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