Dining recommendation near Les Baux de Provence, a Plus Beaux Villages de France

Les Baux de Provence is a picturesque village about 46 miles southwest of our house in Sablet. The village sits on an elevated site with ancient houses and ruins of a castle perched on top overlooking plains to the south.

The village is classified as one of the "Plus Beaux Villages de France". The beauty of the village and surrounding Alpilles, a small range of mountains, makes Les Baux de Provence a very popular place for visitors all year long.

The name Les Baux refers to its site, in Provencal, a baou is a rocky spur. Bauxite, a rock with high aluminum content, was mined extensively in the area but by the end of the 20th century, all the Bauxite was completely extracted. 

The area surrounding Les Baux de Provence is known for production of high quality olive oil. The olive oil pressed from this area is labeled AOC Vallee des Baux, an area covering about 4,250 acres in the heart of Les Alpilles.

Les Baux de Provence

We headed to Les Baux de Provence on a beautiful day, albeit fairly cold, typical for a winter day in Provence to find hand made pottery for our daughters at Shirley's favorite pottery shop in the center of the village. 

While our favorite local restaurant, Le Bistrot du Paradou was open, we decided to try a new-to-us bistrot called Bistrot de l'Aupiho a little south of Les Baux off the D27 in the direction of Maussanne-les-Alpilles.

The Bistrot is located at Domaine de Manville, a 247 acre property with 5 star hotel, 18-hole golf course, spa, Michelin starred Restaurant l'Aupiho and the aforementioned Bistrot de l'Aupiho.

Bistrot de l'Aupiho

We were seated on a covered terrace with plenty of ventilation as we prefer during time of COVID. We had dressed to be outdoors, but before too long, some diners fled to the interior as they found the terrace a little too cold.

Shirley at Bistrot de l'Aupiho

Bistrot de l'Aupiho does not offer a typical 2 or 3 course menu at lunch so you choose from a nice selection of a la carte offerings. At night, they do offer a 3 course "Menu Decouverte" but everyone at the table must choose this menu. 

For our lunch, I chose a red wine from a local domain called Mas Sainte Berthe which I knew was located at the foot of Les Baux de Provence. We have not been to this winery but as the wine was very good, we will put it on our list of places to visit next time we are in the area.

2019 Mas Sainte Berthe Les Baux de Provence Rouge

It is rare to find simple green salads on menus in France. Sometimes the chef will prepare one if asked. But usually, green salads on menus are accompanied by a protein, not usually cheese. So we were really happy to see a list of "Extra Sides" on the Bistrot's menu that included a Salade Verte (green salad). 

Green Salad from the list of Extra Sides

 

The list of "Extra Sides" also included French Fries so we ordered a plate of those as well.

French fries from the list of Extra Sides

What follows are pictures of our main courses and desserts.

Beef Cheeks braised in Red Wine Reduction served with Mashed Potatoes and Gribiche Sauce

Cod Fillet served with Celery Root puree and Cruciferous veggies

Pear Tarte 

Tarte Tatin with Honey Truffle

We did not take cheese but did take note that the Bistrot's cheese selections come from Lou Canesteou, our favorite cheese shop in Vaison-la-Romaine. 

After our lunch, we walked into the village and discovered our pottery shop was closed. Oh well, at least we discovered a nice new bistrot where we will return on future visits.

Le Bistrot de l'Aupiho

Route de la Terre-des-Baux

13520 Les Baux de Provence

France

+33 4 90 54 40 20

www.domainedemanville.fr

Domaine de Valdition, Historic Winery in the Alpilles

I remembered reading a blogger's post about Domaine de Valdition's rosé wine as we came across a sign along the road announcing the entrance to the winery just ahead. That day we were headed to lunch down the road at Sous les Micocouliers in nearby Eygalières.

As you travel down the road, you can see the village of Eygalières ahead, perched on a small hill with chateau ruins at the top. As you get closer, you can see the small houses which line the winding streets of the village.

Domaine de Valdition is located down the road from Eygalières and not far from Saint-Rémy de Provence in the heart of the Alpilles. As we drive around, we see vast olive groves, vineyards, pine and oak forests and flocks of sheep grazing in fields.

Between Eygalières and Domaine de Valdition sits the Romanesque Saint-Sixte chapel, which has been listed as an historic monument by the French government since 1971. The chapel dates back to the 12th century and stands, isolated, on top of a rocky mount. The chapel is supported by massive buttresses and topped by a bell-tower wall.

The chapel is dedicated to the martyred Pope Saint Sixte who was believed to have died in the 3rd century. A procession is organised each year on the Tuesday following Easter, during which Guardians from Camargue, riding white horses, and men and women dressed in Arles-style costumes carry an effigy of the Pope to the Saint Sixte chapel.

If you have been following Our House in Provence blog for a while and especially the posts about food and wine, you have probably figured out that we love rosé wines. The aforementioned blogger, and for the life of me, I can't recall who, wrote that Domaine de Valdition makes her favorite rosé wine. Since we were early for lunch, we decided to turn in and taste the Domaine's wines for ourselves.

During the Renaissance, François 1st, King of France gave the Domaine as a gift to his daughter Caroline du Prévot who married Sieur Dacla de Chateaubert and their family and heirs keep the estate going for the next five centuries.

The Domaine is planted with vineyards and olive groves are surrounded by pastures and pine and oak forests. The Domaine de Valdition vineyards are planted with a lot of different cépages - grape varieties.

The varieties include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault, Grenache Noir, Marselan, Mourvèdre, Petit Verdot and Syrah for red wines, and Bourboulenc, Chasan, Grenache Blanc, Macabeu, Muscat Petit Grain, Roussane and Viognier for white wines.

There are 74 acres of olives groves planted with different varieties of trees for AOC Les Baux de Provence olive oil including Aglandau, Salonenque, Grossane and Verdale from the Bouches du Rhône. An olive called Bouteillan which came originally from the Var is planted on the Domaine too.

Shirley and friend John wait to enter the tasting room with me.

We taste through the various wines produced by the Domaine. They are are classified as Vin de Pays de Alpilles or A.O.C.Coteaux d’Aix en Provence.

We leave with a box of 2011 Vallon des Anges Rosé from the Coteaux d’Aix en Provence. The wine is pale in color and made of a blend of Grenache and Cinsault grapes.

We also buy bottles of AOC Les Baux de Provence olive oil and several ceramic pintades - guinea hens to add to our collection in the kitchen.

Thanks to the unknown blogger who wrote about Domaine de Valdition. We really liked the rosé wine and the delicious olive oil. I wish I could give credit to the proper author. If any of you are the ones who wrote, please remind me so I can correct this oversight.

Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt. Have a great day, chat soon!

Domaine de Valdition
Route d'Eygalières
13660 Orgon
Tel: 04 90 73 08 12
www.valdition.com