A Visit to the Vaison-la-Romaine Weekly Market in March

We look forward to Tuesday mornings because it's the day for the weekly market in Vaison-la-Romaine. That morning, rain or shine always finds us leaving the house early for the trip to Vaison-la-Romaine. 

Vaison-la-Romaine is 6 miles north of Sablet on a winding road and then left around the round-about and across the bridge over the Ouveze River. You know you are close to your destination, when you see the Medieval castle on top of the hill. 

Medieval castle in Vaison-la-Romaine

We generally park our car near Notre Dame de Nazareth Cathedral. From there we head toward the market. On the way, we walk past some of the Roman ruins which are located in and about Vaison-la-Romaine.

The Roman ruins lie in the valley on the right bank of the Ouveze River in two main areas: La Villasse and Puymin. Some of the ruins of La Villasse are shown in the picture below.

Roman ruins

The weekly market is a kaleidoscope of colors and smells of Provence with up to 450 vendors in the summer. Vendor stalls are mostly located on Avenue General de Gaulle, Cours Taulignan, and Place Montfort. 

Avenue General de Gaulle

On our most recent visit, I headed to the upper end of Avenue General de Gaulle in search of herbs and flowers for our terrace. 

Some of the plant vendors on Avenue General de Gaulle

I wish we had room on our terrace for a few Hydrangea plants.

Hydrangeas for sale

Herbs for sale

The market is a tradition dating back to 1483.

I get inspired to cook as I walk past tables piled with beautiful vegetables

Market baskets for sale

Cours Taulignan

One of several vendors who sell olives, peeled garlic, and preserved lemons

A vendor selling cheese and charcuterie

Dry sausages of every type

Beautiful mixed greens and roquette (Argula)

Dried fruits of all kinds and homemade tapenade

First local strawberries from Carpentras

Olive oil and black olives from Nyons

Spices are sold in a manner that would probably not be allowed by US health departments

Our favorite fish monger. Fish are fresh and they scale and clean them perfectly.

Vendors on Place Montfort

After we finish our morning shopping, me for fruits, vegetables, cheese and fish, and Shirley for soap, pottery, linens and souvenirs, we gather at one of the cafes on Place Montfort.

After shopping, we meet up at one of the cafes on Place Montfort for beverages

Vaison-la-Romaine is separated by the Ouveze River into two parts connected by a bridge built by the Romans in the 1st century AD. On the left bank is the old medieval town with the Castle of the Counts of Toulouse at the highest point and on the right bank is the ancient Roman colony and modern town.

Roman bridge in Vaison-la-Romaine

If you go to the market in Vaison-la-Romaine, we recommend you go early as close by parking fills up and the streets get very crowded with locals and tourists checking out the offerings of the vendors. 

I can't wait to return to the market this summer when the vendor tables will be overflowing with tomatoes of all colors and shapes, squash, stone fruit, and cantaloupes, to name a few of my favorite things. 

www.sablethouse.com 

Nyons Market and Excellent Lunch at La Charrette Bleue Restaurant

We arrived in Sablet last Tuesday after being away for 5 months. We arrived too late to shop at the weekly market in Vaison-la-Romaine, which as faithful readers know, is our very favorite market in Provence. 

So on Thursday, we headed to Nyons (28 kms) on the north side of Vaison la Romaine in the Department of the Drome so we could wander around the bustling Provençal market that takes place in the center of town every Thursday morning throughout the year.

Nyons sits in a natural basin on the right bank of the Eygues river, surrounded by hills and small mountains, which provides shelter from wind. The town gets an unusual amount of sunshine, earning Nyons the nickname "Little Nice" for its great climate.

Probably the most famous historical monument in Nyons, is the "Roman Bridge," a single arch bridge across the Eygues river built in Romanesque style between 1341 and 1409. Until the 19th century, the bridge was the main access road into Nyons.

Roman Bridge, Nyons

The olive tree in the roundabout in the center of Nyons is a reminder that olives are celebrated in Nyons year-around with the Festival of Pitted Olives the weekend before Christmas, the Festival of New Olive Oil, the first Sunday in February, and Fête des Olivades, the weekend which follows Bastille Day.

We walked through the Saint Jacques gate, the only gate intact from the medieval defensive walls, to "Place des Arcades" and "Place de la Liberation" where the market was underway. "Place des Arcades" dates from the 14th century when it was set aside for markets and fairs in Nyons. The square gets its name from the arcades that surround the square.

Saint Vincent's Church with Saint-Césaire monastery and two nearby cemeteries formed the religious center of Nyons in the Middle Ages. Most of the modern-day Saint Vincent's Church dates from the beginning of the 17th century.

The bell tower of Saint Vincent Church

The most visible monument is the Randonne Tower topped by pyramid arches on which stands a statue of Virgin Mary. The tower was erected around 1280, and at the time was used as a keep and military prison for the castle. In the 19th century it was converted to a chapel and renamed "Notre-Dame de Bon-Secours".

Randonne Tower, Nyons

After we completed our shopping and visits to an olive mill and the Roman Bridge, we headed north to La Charette Bleue Restaurant, a roadside restaurant where we have enjoyed some excellent meals over the years.

The restaurant is located 8 kms northeast of Nyons on the road toward Gap in the small village of Les Pilles. Although it was a bit chilly, we had warm vests and chose to sit in the sun on the terrace in front of the restaurant. 

We perused the menu while we nibbled on little toasts topped with black olive tapenade. I went with the "Menu Decouverte", 3 courses for 35 euros and Shirley opted to go a la carte. My first course was a gratin of mussels. 

 

Cassolette of shelled Mussels in a garlic and parsley butter gratin

Shirley's first course was a warm flan of fresh goat cheese with mixed greens tossed in olive oil topped with an onion fougasse.

Warm flan of fresh goat cheese with mixed greens tossed in olive oil and onion fougasse

After debating between Fletan (Halibut) and Merlan (Whiting), Shirley opted for the Filet of Merlan that was pan sauteed, topped with onion beignets and fresh vegetables, and served with a lemon grass sauce.

Filet of Merlan

I was immediately drawn to the Canette de Canard (young female duck) pan roasted on the skin side. It was perfectly cooked rose just as requested. 

Pan roasted Canette de Canard

I chose the Opera cake and asked our server to bring two forks so we could share. Shirley wanted just coffee to finish. 

Opera Cake

We weren't up to a whole bottle of wine for lunch so chose one of the restaurant's half-bottle selections from Domaine du Moulin from Vinsobres. It was delicious and if you come across it on a wine list or store shelf, don't hesitate to choose it. 

Domaine du Moulin Vinsobres

This was an excellent meal, service was attentive, and we felt very safe/comfortable sitting outside on the terrace despite the pandemic swirling around the area. We agreed that we would try to return for another meal before we head back to US.

La Charrette Bleue
Route de Gap
26110 Condorcet
Tel: 04 75 27 72 33
Website: Restaurant Nyons - Charrette Bleue | Cuisine Régionale Créative (lacharrettebleue.net)