Friday in Cassis

If you have been to Cassis, you won't be surprised to know that it's one of our favorite towns in Provence. Happily, it only takes 1 hour and half to drive from Sablet to Cassis. The picturesque town is tucked into a stunning location along the Mediterranean Sea between the calanques (little coastal fjords with tall cliffs), about 20 km east of Marseille.

In case you don't know, Cassis is a small fishing port on a steep hillside with vineyards and pastel-colored houses which tumble down to a seaside port lined with more pastel-colored houses and shops with 8,000 inhabitants. The port is filled with little fishing boats, yachts and a collection of charter boats that take visitors out to the calanques.

When you visit Sablet, we will take a day trip to Cassis. We like to go on Friday mornings since that is one of the days (Wednesday is the other) that the Marché Provençal takes place. That is exactly what we did one Friday this summer, when daughter Tricia and family were visiting Sablet.

Cassis Marché Provençal

We try to get to Cassis early in the morning since parking is often a challenge. From time to time, we have to park in a remote lot (Relais des Gourgettes) and hike or ride the navette (shuttle bus) to the port. This time we are lucky, and found parking very close to the port.

Musicians on market day near Place Gilbert Savon

There are more shops and restaurants on the narrow streets of Cassis away from the port.

Cassis street

The port area where Quai des Baux and Quai Saint-Pierre meet in the center of Cassis.

Port area where Quai des Baux and Quai Saint-Pierre meet

Another view of the port area where Quai des Baux and Quai Saint-Pierre meet

There are four public beach areas in Cassis. The Grand Mer beach is the main beach near the center of town and consists of sand and pebbles.

Grand Mer Beach

The Romanesque style Saint Michel Church was built near the port a short distance from the center of town between 1859 and 1867.

The bell tower of Saint Michel Church is visible from the port

Pastel colored houses and shops line Quai des Baux

Fishing boats tied up along Quai des Baux

We love the flowers that adorn the light poles in Cassis

The port is lined with tourist shops, terrace cafés and restaurants which offer a variety of food and prices. As you can imagine, it's great fun to watch people stroll down Quai (dock) des Baux and Quai Jean-Jacques Barthélémy while you soak up the sun in front of one of the eateries that line the port. Unfortunately, the view is much better than the food so we usually just order drinks.

Tourists walk down Quai des Baux

Pretty house along Quai des Baux

Pretty house over shop along Quai des Baux

Another view of Quai des Baux

Le Bonaparte Restaurant is our favorite restaurant in Cassis. The restaurant is located on a side street several blocks off the port. There is a small dining room and seating on the street. Le Bonaparte Restaurant is owned by the chef Jean-Marie who has been in business 23 years. That's where we headed for lunch that Friday.

Daughter Tricia and grandson Caedon at Le Bonaparte Restaurant

Yes, it was a very warm day.

Me with son-in-law Alvin

Alvin with granddaughter Avery

Shirley and Caedon

On Fridays there is a meatless tradition in Provence called Aioli. So we were not surprised that the special being served that Friday by chef Jean-Marie was Aioli. So that is what we all ordered.

Platter of Grand Aioli

Aioli, which comes from the French "ail" (garlic) and "oli" (the old langue d'oc word for olive oil) has two meanings: First, it's a thick, aromatic garlic mayonnaise that accompanies various foods including cold roasts, poached fish and boiled vegetables, and even serves as a tasty thickener for fish soup.

Second, the word refers to "le grand aioli," an abundant Provençal meal traditionally consisting of a cornucopia of boiled vegetables, salt cod and some seafood accompanied by copious amounts of aioli sauce. Generally, all of the food is served at room temperature

Plate with selection of items from the Grand Aioli platter

This is what you do after spending the morning under a hot Provencal sun, eating a delicious Grand Aioli and drinking chilled white wine from Cassis.

Siesta time

More musicians in Cassis

Evidence suggests that Cassis was settled as early as 600 BC around the same time as Marseille. Ligures, Greeks and Romans all passed through there, thriving on an economy based on fishing, trade with North Africa and the Middle East and the limestone in the nearby calanques.

During successive waves of barbarian invasions, the population took refuge in the Castrum de Carsisis, a mighty rectangular castle of 52,200 square feet perched high on a cliff overlooking the port.

The Castle seen below was built in 1381 by the counts of Les Baux and refurbished last century by Mr. Michelin, the boss of the company that makes tires and publishes the famous Green Guides. Today it is privately owned and partially converted to a luxury B and B.

Maison des Baux Castle

You often see locals playing intense games of the Provençal sport known as Boule near the port at Place Gilbert Savon. Not today, it was hot and they were probably taking a siesta at home or laying out beachside.

Place Gilbert Savon

The water teems with fish

Nature lovers have been attracted to the Massif des Calanque's solid limestone, whiteness and weather-worn peaks for a long time.

But the unique charm and beauty of the Massif des Calanques stem from the deep walled, narrow inlets --the famous calanques, chiseled out along the coastline creating a beautiful trilogy of sea, sky and rocks.

Boat tours operate from the Cassis port, the tourism office there sells tickets for trips that take you to 3, 7 or 13 calangues. We opted for a 45-minute boat tour of 3 calanques.

The following are pictures of Cassis from the Regali--our 47.6 foot boat for the trip, and tour along the coast out to the calanques and back.

Tricia and family stand in front of Regali

View of Quai des Baux from the Regali

View from Regali down Quai des Baux

View from the Regali towards port area near center of town

The port area in front of the shops and restaurants which line Quai Jean-Jacques Barthélémy

The calanque of Port-Miou seen below is the calanque closest to Cassis.

Calanque of Port-Miou

View from Regali

A few of the calanques are accessible on foot and rocks along the way provide perfect spots for sunbathing.

Another view from the Regali

Some areas are accessible by foot and provide great spots for sunbathing

The large calanque of Port-Pin seen below with its sandy beach surrounded by pine trees.

Calanque of Port-Pin

Limestone rock formation

More white limestone rock formations with the backdrop of the magnificent blue sky.

Cap Canaille which rises up between Cassis and La Ciotat, is one of the highest cliffs of Europe at 399 meters (1,309 feet) and the highest cliff in France.

Cap Canaille

Grande Mer Beach

The Cassis lighthouse sits at the mouth of the port. It is a great place to sit on the quay and watch the fishing boats, yachts, and calanque tour boats sail through the narrow passage way that leads from the port to the Mediterranean Sea.

The Cassis Lighthouse

Back in Cassis.

The beautiful town of Cassis and its port

We had a great time with the family in Cassis. Hard not to, with the beautiful weather and vistas all around. Have a great week.

Calanques and Restaurant Bonaparte, Cassis

Friday morning July 15 was our wedding anniversary -- a perfect day to be in Provence. Shirley and I, along with niece Leslie who was visiting from Florida, were in our car and headed to Cassis. We had decided that it would be wonderful to spend our anniversary in Cassis, eat lunch and go out on a boat to see the calanques.

Cassis is a very picturesque town on a steep hillside with vineyards and pastel-colored houses which tumble down to the tiny seaside port lined with more pastel-colored houses and shops about 1 and 1/2 hour drive from our house in Sablet.

We have been to Cassis many times but had never taken a boat ride out to the Massif des Calangues which stretch for nearly 20 kms between Cassis and Marseille. Nature lovers have been attracted to the Massif des Calanque's solid limestone, whiteness and weather-worn peaks for a long time.

But the unique charm and beauty of the Massif des Calanques stem from the deep walled, narrow inlets --the famous calanques, chiseled out along the coastline creating a beautiful trilogy of sea, sky and rocks.

Boat tours operate from the Cassis port, the tourism office there sells tickets for trips that take you to 3, 7 or 13 calangues. We opted for the 45-minute boat tour of 3 calanques.

The following are pictures of Cassis from the Bois D'Amour II --our boat for the trip, and tour along the coast out to the calanques and back. Leslie and me soak up the sunshine while we wait on the boat for departure to the calanques.

A seagull enjoys a swim in the still water of the Cassis port.

A boat returning from a tour of the calanques.

We are underway!

A shot back to Cassis and a beach full of sunbathers.

The coast line with the blue sky backdrop.

More coastline with the magnificent blue sky backdrop.

A few of the calanques are accessible on foot and rocks along the way provide the perfect spot for sunbathing.

Limestone rock formations.

The calanque de Port-Miou, the calanque closest to Cassis.

As I said earlier, you can access a few of the calanques on footpaths along the sea.

More coastline with the white limestone rock formations with the backdrop of the magnificent blue sky.

Flat limestone walls.

The large calanque of Port-Pin with its sandy beach surrounded by pine trees.

The tree appears to grow right out of the limestone rock formation.

The entrance to the calanque d'En-Vau.

The pretty calanque d'En-Vau, the best known of the calanques with its white cliffs, emerald water and stony beach.

Headed back to Cassis.

The western beach of Cassis.

Meanwhile back in Cassis, the sandy Plage de la Grande Mer, on the seaside of the breakwater.

We arrived in Cassis late-morning and after wandering through the Friday morning Marché Provençal and in and out of shops decided that we would have lunch before we went on our boat excursion. I have complained in several previous posts that we have not found a really good restaurant alongside the port.

And several times, Sara over at Sara in Le Petit Village, one of my favorite blogs, has suggested we try Le Bonaparte Restaurant. The restaurant is located on a side street several blocks off the port. There is a small dining room and seating on the street.

Shirley and Leslie smile for yet another picture.

We chose a bottle of the 2009 Clos Sainte Magdeleine made of a blend of Marsanne, Ugni, Clairette and Bourboulenc. We have visited this domaine and I can't imagine a more beautiful wine estate in Cassis.

The Le Bonaparte Restaurant is owned by the chef Jean-Marie who has been in business 23 years. I asked about the grilled fish of the day on the menu and a few minutes later chef Jean-Marie came to our table with a hotel pan with whole large (meant to be shared by two people) and smaller sized Loup de Mer and Daurade.

Our entrée -- starters, included Moules Marinières -- mussels steamed in white wine and

Moules Gratinées -- a saucy mussel gratin and

an off the menu salad made for Shirley with greens and tomatoes.

Our plats -- main courses included the whole grilled Daurade I chose from chef Jean-Marie; it was served and filleted table side with mashed potatoes.

Other main courses included grilled salmon served over pasta with a taragon cream sauce and

pan roasted white fish from the cod family served over pasta with a red cream sauce.

Our dessert choices included a chocolate brownie with a sabayon sauce and

apple tart with vanilla ice cream and

a delicious chocolate mousse.

To finish our meal, chef Jean-Marie sent out two glasses of crème de cassis for the ladies and a glass of cognac for me. A very nice touch and most pleasant way to end our wonderful meal at Le Bonaparte

Thank you Sara for your recommendation. We will return many times I am sure to this restaurant and recommend it to anyone willing to fore go a view for great food. I would make that choice any day based upon our previous experiences at port side restaurants.

If you are not familiar with Sara's blog, I would encourage you to go check out her entertaining blog, she is a most interesting writer, at Sara in Le Petit Village.

Bonne journée mes amis et à très bientôt.