Gordes, France: A Village Perched in Time.

Perched dramatically on the southern edge of the Vaucluse Plateau in Provence, France, Gordes is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful villages in France. With a current permanent population of around 1,661, though that number swells significantly during the summer, this hilltop village captivates visitors with its honey-colored limestone houses that cascade down the hillside, offering sweeping views of the Luberon Valley. 

Gordes

Gordes traces its origins to the Celtic people known as the Vordenses, who built their settlement atop a rocky summit as protection against invasion. This need for security, driven by centuries of conflict, gave rise to the hilltop village you see today. 

In more recent history, the Vaucluse plateau surrounding Gordes became an active hub of the French resistance during World War II. On August 21, 1944, the village was bombed in retaliation by the German army, killing 20 residents - a sacrifice for which Gordes was awarded the War Cross with a silver star in 1948. 

The Chateau of Gordes, which dates back to 1031, was rebuilt in 1525. The well-preserved and carefully restored building combines architecture from the Middle Ages and Renaissance era. The chateau now houses the tourist office and offers a cultural space for exhibitions. 

Chateau de Gordes

Beyond its dramatic cliffside location, Gordes is renowned for the Senanque Abbey, a striking 12th century Cistercian monastery nestled in a nearby valley that is famously surrounded by vibrant fields of lavender. 

The village is also known for the Village des Bories (an ancient settlement of unique dry-stone huts) and the hidden, labyrinthine subterranean oil mills found deep within the cellars of Saint-Firmin Palace. 

Gordes War Memorial in center of village

Pretty building with bell tower of Saint-Firmin Church in background

Tourist shop next to entrance to Chapelle des Penitents Blancs (Chapel of the White Penitents)

Gordes gained international attention as one of the filming locations for my favorite movie, A Good Year, directed by Ridley Scott and starring Russell Crowe and Marion Cottillard. Based on the novel by Peter Mayle, the film tells the story of a London investment banker who inherits a vineyard in the Luberon Valley and discovers a slower, more fulfilling way of life. 

While much of the movie was filmed throughout the Luberon region, Gordes served as one of its most recognizable backdrops. The village's honey-colored stone buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, and dramatic hilltop setting perfectly captured the idyllic Provencal lifestyle portrayed in the film. Nearby vineyards, lavender fields, and country roads feature prominently, helping to create the romantic atmosphere that has inspired many travelers to visit the area.

The fountain in Place Genty Pantaly in Gordes

Shirley and me with friends sitting on the fountain in Place Genty Pantaly

A hat shop on Rue du Four in Gordes

The stepped, cobblestone paths in Gordes are called calades.  

The view from the overlook in Gordes

Stonewall around a hotel in Gordes

Whether you're drawn by the breathtaking panoramic views of the Luberon Valley or the maze of ancient cobblestone streets, Gordes rewards every traveler who makes the journey. Perched a little over 1,100 feet above the valley floor, the village is so fiercely protected that all new buildings must be built of stone and only terracotta roof tiles are permitted.  

If you are planning a visit to Provence, our home in the medieval village of Sablet offers the perfect combination of authentic Provencal charm and modern comfort. This beautifully restored 17th-century stone house is located in the heart of one of Provence's most picturesque wine villages, just steps from cafes, restaurants, bakery, and the village church. 

With three large bedrooms, three bathrooms, air conditioning, a chef's kitchen, and sunny terraces, it is an ideal base for couples, families, or friends exploring the region. From Sablet, you can easily visit the famous hilltop villages of the Vaucluse, the vineyards of the Cotes du Rhone, the Roman ruins of Vaison-la-Romaine, Mont Ventoux, Avignon, and the Dentelles de Montmirail.

After a day of sightseeing, return home to enjoy a glass of local wine on the terrace and experience the relaxed pace of life in a genuine Provencal village.

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Menton, a colorful town and citrus capitol of France

Menton is a picturesque town located on the French Riviera, at the far southeastern edge of France, just a few miles from the Italian boarder and about 20 miles east of Nice.

With a population of roughly 30,000 residents, Menton enjoys a mild, sunny climate that is considered one of the warmest on the Cote d'Azur.

The town is famous for its colorful old quarter climbing up the hillside above the harbor, its elegant Belle Epoque architecture, lush gardens, and relaxed atmosphere that feels distinctly more Italian than many other Riviera towns.

Historically, Menton was part of the Principality of Monaco for centuries before becoming French in the 19th century. Because of its unique microclimate, the town became a fashionable winter resort for wealthy British and Russian visitors during the late 1800s and early 1900s. 

Today, Menton is especially famous for its lemons and other types of citrus groves, celebrated every February during the internationally known Fete du Citron, when enormous sculptures and parade floats are built entirely from lemons and oranges. 

Les Halles de Menton, commonly called the Menton Market Hall, shown below, is one of the town's most beloved gathering places and a centerpiece of daily life in Menton.

Located near the old harbor and just below the colorful old town, the covered market was built in 1898 in a classic Belle Epoque style with ironwork architecture typical of southern France market halls of that era. 

Menton Market Hall

Tea Time Boutique

Menton Tile Fresco Mural

Busy Menton street

Menton street that leads to the top of the town.

Shirley descending a stone Menton stairway Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange is the architectural and spiritual centerpiece of Menton, dramatically perched high above the old town overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Built primarily during the 17th and early 18th centuries in an ornate Italian Baroque style, the basilica reflects Menton's long historical ties to the Italian states and the Principality of Monaco before the town became part of France. Its striking bell tower, pastel-colored facade, and sweeping staircase rising from the Place de la Conception create one of the most recognizable views on the French Riviera.

Basilica Saint-Michel-Archange

The beautiful stonework and pebble mosaic paving in Place de la Conception is one of the most distinctive features of old Menton. The square, directly below the Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange, is paved in traditional Mediterranean mosaic patterns made from carefully arranged rounded beach pebbles and natural stones. 

Stonework and pebble mosaic paving in Place de la Conception

Inside the Basilique, you will find richly decorated chapels, marble alters, frescoes, and a grand organ.

Interior of Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange

Looking down on the beach from Place de la Conception

Shirley and I overlooking the Menton harbor from Place de la Conception

Menton street at top of town

Belltowers of Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange

View of Menton harbor and Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange bell towers

Another view of the Basilique Saint-Michel-Archange bell towers

Street leading down to Menton harbor

The Tarte Mentonnaise is a dessert specialty from Menton. The tart generally consists of a delicate buttery pastry crust filled with a rich lemon cream or custard made from fresh lemon juice, zest, eggs, sugar, and butter. Some versions like the one sold below are topped with meringue. I highly recommend you seek out this shop if you are in Menton. Their tarts are delicious.

La Tarte Mentonnaise boutique Menton is all about lemons. You can find shops whose specialty is Limoncello and Mandarincello liqueurs.  Others, like the shop below focus on Eau de Menton. Eau de Menton is a citrus-based eau de toilette created in 1947 in Menton by perfumer Louis Berneux. The fragrance was inspired by Menton's world famous lemons and the sunny climate of the Cote d'Azur.

Eau de Menton boutique

Menton War Memorial

This was our first visit to Menton.  We found that Menton offers the beauty and glamour of the French Riviera in a setting that feels more authentic, relaxed, and intimate than many of the other resort cities. You can stroll through the streets of the medieval old town, enjoy quieter, less crowded beaches, and experience a slower more authentic pace than other towns on the Riviera. We highly recommend that you include it on your trip to the French Riviera. www.sablethouse.com

Roussillon, Our Favorite Village in the Luberon and Most Beautiful

Friends and others headed to Provence often ask where they should go during a once in a lifetime seven-day visit to Provence. This a hard question as most visitors have only 6 days since they usually arrive on Saturday afternoon and depart the following Sunday. There are so many wonderful things to see.

There is something for everyone in Provence; there are amazing Roman ruins and medieval villages for history buffs, lavender, sunflowers and coquelicots (poppies) for artists, weekly marche hebdomadaire (open-air markets with tantalizing displays of fruits and vegetables), great restaurants for foodies, and world-famous vineyards for wine lovers.  

There are perched villages everywhere, summer music and theater festivals, bull fights and the Transhumance for lovers of spectacles, brocantes and vide-greniers for antique hunters, Mont Ventoux for amateur cyclists who want to test their skills on the most famous ascent on the Tour de France, the Dentelles de Montmirail for hikers and picturesque villages with beaches along the Mediterranean Sea. 

We usually suggest a visitors include a trip to the vibrant red-ocher colored town of Roussillon, one of five villages nestled in the Luberon hills which are classified as Plus Beaux Villages de France (Most beautiful villages of France). Roussillon is one of our favorite villages and just one hour from Sablet.

The Luberon stretches 35 miles along a ridge of rugged hills from Cavaillon in the west to Manosque in the east and from the town of Apt south to the Durance River. Much of the area including Roussillon lies within the borders of the Parc Naturel Regional du Luberon, a protected area with outstanding natural beauty.

Ocher colored houses outside Roussillon

Roussillon sits on the southern edge of the Plateau de Vaucluse above one of the world's largest known ocher deposits where 17 shades of ocher -- violet, blood red, orange, yellow, and everything between were once mined. 

Roussillon

Roussillon

Just a few minutes' walk from the village is the beginning of the Sentier des Ocres (Ocher trail). Ocher is a natural pigment in the sandy soil which form the cliffs around Roussillon. Iron oxides color the sands into shades ranging from yellow to violet. The mineral landscape shows the effects of erosion and mining work done by man.

Two different trails, one short, one long takes you through the ocher lands on a 30-minute or 60-minute walk. You can stay as long as you like. Information signs along the way describe the geology, flora and history of the ocher deposits in the Luberon. The trails take you past multi-colored ocher formations set against a backdrop of pine trees. There is a small admission fee. 

Ocher cliff outside Roussillon

Water fountain in Roussillon

Roussillon shop

Historical oil mill in Roussillon

Roussillon must have more restaurants per head of population than any other Luberon village. Most are clustered around Town Hall Square. A little lower down, with its dining room sailing out into the ocher void, is the more upscale David. 

View back toward Town Hall Square and shops and cafes along the street

The belfry was the ancient entrance into the fortified area called the Castrum. The belfry was renovated in the 19th century as a bell tower adjoining the church. The first street on the left takes you along the former watchman's walkway, which ran between the two towers on the rampart wall. There are great views of the village and surrounding area.

Roussillon belfry and clock tower

Saint Michel Church whose origins go back to the 11th century, originally faced the castle, inside the fortified walls. The church has undergone countless renovations over time, necessitated in part by its location by the cliff.

Saint Michel Church

Ocher only became a widespread, industrial product in the late 18th century when Roussillon native son Jean-Etienne Astier came up with the idea of washing the ocher-laden sands to extract the pure pigment.

View towards village cemetery from top of Roussillon

Archway view out over the Luberon valley

The Librairie (bookstore) in La Maison Tacchella to the left and the Hotel de Ville (Town Hall) to the right in Town Hall Square, the main village square.

Town Hall Square

As you can imagine, the beauty of Roussillon draws crowds of visitors during tourist season. It is the most visited village in the Luberon after Gordes, a few miles to the west. Despite this, we have never had any problem finding parking close to the village.

We think its best to visit in the morning when the first sunshine of the day strikes the village, to see the glowing colors at their most stunning. Roussillon is fairly small, so it doesn't take very long to explore. So combine a visit to Roussillon with a visit to Gordes or other hill towns in the Luberon.

Town Hall Square Cafe

Mural painted on a Roussillon garage door

Don't forget your camera when you go, you will definitely want to take a lot of pictures. 

Tulips grown in the Vaucluse for sale in Holland.

We just returned from a short sojourn in Provence after an unusually long absence for us. Sadly, this was the longest time between visits since we bought our home in Sablet in 2008. 

One of our favorite things about Provence are the fields of flowers and orchard blossoms that we find at various times of the year. There are orchards with cherry blossoms in April and early May all around the village of Venasque.

Then, red poppies, known as Coquelicots in France, make their appearance in May. Coquelicots generally grow wild rather than cultivated so you never know where you are going to come across them as you drive around Provence.

Lavender, the most famous flowering plant in Provence, blooms from mid-June to late July depending upon elevation. Sunflowers adorn the landscape from late June to the end of July and are typically harvested in August.

A few years back, we discovered that tulips are grown around Jonquieres, a small village about 20 minutes from Sablet. I am not sure if one person owns all the land where they are planted as the location of the tulip fields changes year to year.  

Dutch tulip farmers outsource growing bulbs to farmers in Provence. While the flowers are still in full bloom, they cut the flower with a lawn mower type machine to save the plant's energy for the bulbs.  The first few times we passed by the tulip fields, it did not appear that they sold any flowers. Now, signs indicate flowers are for sale.  

Since the tulips are in bloom in early spring, from late March to early April, we headed out one recent morning toward Jonquieres to see if any tulips were in bloom. The following pictures are what we found.

Jonquieres tulip field

We have been told that tulips are also grown in the triangle between Lurs, Forcalquier and La Brillanne in the Department of Alpes-de-Haute-Provence. Maybe the next time we are in Sablet in late March, we will head here to explore this area. 

Jonquieres tulip field

Jonquieres tulip field

Jonquieres tulip field

Jonquieres tulip field

Jonquieres tulip field

Another flowering plant we see at this time of year is Colza, in English, Rape Seed. The plant is grown to produce oil for cooking and industrial processes. In the United States, we know the edible version of this oil as canola oil. 

Field of Colza (Rape Seed)

Watch this blog for new posts about visits to new restaurants and villages during our most recent visit to Sablet.

www.sablethouse.com