Happy Easter friends! I hope you are having a wonderful weekend. We are back "home" in Northern California after a fabulous stay, albeit too short at "home" in Sablet. While it rained in Northern California for most of the time we were in Sablet, we had glorious weather in Provence.
We live in Sonoma County California which borders the Pacific Ocean north of San Francisco. This weekend, the tall ships Lady Washington and Hawaiian Chieftain are making their first-ever visit to Bodega Bay, a small village on the Sonoma coast to help commemorate the 200th anniversary of the founding of Fort Ross, the southern most settlement in the Russian colonization in North America.
Yesterday, daughter Stephanie and family were in San Francisco and daughter Tricia was sleeping after working a 12-hour shift (she's a registered nurse) overnight at the hospital so we took off with son-in-law Alvin, and grandkids Avery and Caedon to the Sonoma coast to see the tall ships.
The original Lady Washington was built in the British Colony of Massachusetts in the 1750s and carried freight between colonial ports until the American Revolutionary War, when she became an American privateer. In 1787, after the war, she was given a major refit to prepare her for a trading voyage around Cape Horn. In 1788, she became the first American vessel to make landfall on the west coast of North America.
A pioneer in Pan-Pacific trade, she was the first American ship to visit Honolulu, Hong Kong and Japan. The Lady Washington opened the black pearl and sandalwood trade between Hawaii and the Orient when King Kamehameha became a partner in the ship.
The topsail ketch Hawaiian Chieftain is a replica of a typical European merchant trader of the turn of the nineteenth century. Her hull shape and rigging are similar to those of Spanish explorer's ships used in the expeditions of the late 18th century along the Washington, Oregon, and California coasts.
Built of steel in Hawaii in 1988 and originally designed for cargo trade among the Hawaiian Islands, the Hawaiian Chieftain's design was influenced by the early colonial passenger and coastal packets that traded among Atlantic coastal cities and towns.
Spud Point Marina in Bodega Bay.
Not sure if this is a sea lion or seal as both live along the California coast in the Bay area. You can click on these pictures to enlarge them.
Son-in-law Alvin and grandson Caedon watch the tall ships.
Grandson Caedon enjoys playing in the sand at Spud Point Marina in Bodega Bay.
Granddaughter Avery plays in the sand.
Since the tall ships headed out to sea to enact a gun battle, we went to Bodega Head, a promontory further out on the coast beyond Spud Point Marina to see if we could watch the battle from there.
Much to our great pleasure and surprise, we found a small crowd watching a couple of Gray whales, a large one, probably a female with a smaller one, probably an older calf, playing in the water close to the shore.
The Gray whale is a Baleen whale that migrates between feeding grounds off Alaska and breeding grounds off Baja California on a yearly basis. The whale reaches a length of about 16 m (52 ft), a weight of 40 short tons (36 287 kgs), and lives 50–70 years.
The whale feeds mainly on crustaceans, which it eats by turning on its side (usually the right, resulting in loss of eyesight in the right eye for many older animals) and scooping up sediments from the sea floor.
It is classified as a baleen whale and has baleen, or whalebone, which acts like a sieve, to capture small sea animals, including amphipods taken in along with sand, water and other material.
Mostly, the animal feeds in the northern waters during the summer and opportunistically feeds during its migration, depending primarily on its extensive fat reserves. Calf Gray whales drink fifty to eighty gallons of their mothers' 53% fat milk per day
Each October, as the northern ice pushes southward, small groups of Gray whales start a two to three month, 8,000–11,000 kilometers (5,000-6,800 mi) trip south. Beginning in the Bering and Chukchi seas and ending in the warm-water lagoons of Mexico's Baja peninsula and the southern Gulf of California.
Traveling night and day, the gray whale averages approximately 120 kilometers (75 mi) per day at an average speed of 8 kilometers per hour (5 mph). This round trip of 16,000–22,000 kilometers (9,900–14,000 mi) is believed to be the longest annual migration of any mammal.
By late December to early January, Gray whales begin to arrive in the calving lagoons of Baja. These first whales to arrive are usually pregnant mothers looking for the protection of the lagoons to bear their calves, along with single females seeking mates.
By mid-February to mid-March, the bulk of the population has arrived in the lagoons, filling them with nursing, calving and mating gray whales. The shallow lagoon waters in which gray whales reproduce are believed to protect the newborn calves from sharks and orcas
Throughout February and March, the first to leave the lagoons are males and females without new calves. Pregnant females and nursing mothers with their newborns are the last to depart, leaving only when their calves are ready for the journey, which is usually from late March to mid-April. Often a few mothers linger with their young calves well into May.
The Hawaiian Chieftain returns to Spud Point Marina after its battle with Lady Washington off Bodega Head on the Sonoma Coast.
We had a great day out in Bodega Bay. Seeing the Gray whales on the migration trip back to their feeding grounds was a special added treat.
Who knows, those of you who live near the Mediterranean Sea in the South of France may see Gray whales yourselves some day. On May 8, 2010, a sighting of a Gray whale was confirmed off the coast of Israel in the Mediterranean Sea leading some scientists to think they might be repopulating old breeding grounds that have not been used for centuries.
Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
We have a beautiful stone village house located in the heart of the medieval village of Sablet in the Vaucluse region of Provence France. Dating from the 17th century, the house was renovated by an Italian stone mason with all of the comforts of a modern home while retaining its authentic Provençal character and charm. On this blog, we share experiences from our visits along with those of our families and friends to Sablet and the South of France.
Sunday, April 8, 2012
Friday, April 6, 2012
Domaine de Mourchon, Séguret
Sablet is located at the base of the Dentelles de Montmirail surrounded by small wine-making villages, the closest of which is Séguret, about 2 kms northeast of Sablet. As you can see in the picture below, Séguret is elevated above the vineyards that separate the two villages and spreads out across the bottom of a hill topped by ruins of its feudal castle.
Shirley's favorite morning walk is to head out from Sablet on the path through the vineyards up to Séguret then wander through the pretty village before heading back to Sablet on the connecting road. Séguret was one of the first villages classified as a Plus Beaux Villages de France and is definitely worth a visit.
If you decide to drive to Séguret rather then walk, you will have to park in one of the parking areas just below the village as Séguret is accessible only on foot. From the parking area, walk up the hill through the archway of the old wall around Séguret to the main street.
Wander the narrow cobblestone streets and you will discover the 14th century belfry with its single needle clock, the beautiful 10th century Saint-Denis church, the Rue des Poternes lined with ancient houses, and the Huguenots' gate.
There are a few tourist shops, art galleries, santon workshops, wine shops, and restaurants. Le Mesclun is a very good restaurant and is open throughout the year. There is an adjoining terrace where we have dined several times on warm sunny days.
Walk out the arched portal door at the end of the village through the old wall and circle back to the parking area by way of the road that runs along the base of the village. Make sure you take time to admire the fantastic views out over the vineyards and the village of Sablet.
Shirley would want me to tell you that if you go to Séguret, carry toilet paper in your pocket or purse just in case you need to use the public restrooms located near the parking area; they are very rustic and there is no toilet paper. These toilets would not qualify for classification as one of the Plus Beaux Toilettes de France.
Séguret is not just a beautiful village, it also has vineyards and some very talented winemakers who make very good wine. Among those excellent domaines is Domaine de Mourchon. Every time we go to Séguret, we see the sign by the parking area pointing the way to Domaine de Mourchon but we have never gone.
So this time with friends John and Lorelei in tow, we decided to follow the signs to Domaine de Mourchon. We found the entrance to the Domaine after driving several kms up a very narrow road that at times seemed more like a path, winding around vineyards and through forest land above Séguret.
In comparison to many domaines in the Côtes du Rhône where families have been making wine for multiple generations, the history of Domaine de Mourchon is a recent one. The Domaine was established in 1998 by the McKinlay family with the purchase of 17 hectares (42 acres) of established vineyards with an average age of 55 years.
Up to that time, the grapes from these vineyards had been vinified at the local co-operative. Since there was no winery, a state-of-the art gravity-flow winery was commissioned and completed just in time for the 1999 harvest. In 2003, they bought 7 more hectares (17.3 acres) to meet the growing demand for the Domaine's wine.
The story of Domaine de Mourchon and the McKinlay family's interest in southern Côtes du Rhône wines began in Scotland in the 1970s, when Walter McKinlay and his wife Ronnie chose a Vacqueyras wine as the house wine for her restaurant at The Udny Arms Hotel in Aberdeenshire.
Some years later after selling his information technology business, Walter started looking for a small established vineyard where he and his wife could retire. Despite the fact that the land at Mourchon had no winery and no house, Walter purchased the vineyard and set about the tasks of building a winery and establishing a brand.
Not long after, Walter and Ronnie were joined by their daughter Kate and son-in-law Hugo Levingston and their three children, who all work together to run Domaine de Mourchon as a family-run, independent winery.
Our little group walked into the winery and said "bonjour" and then I launched into a short explanation of who we were, the fact we have a home in Sablet and own a French bistro in Northern California, something I always do.
Of course, this was all in my best French, so we were surprised when the gentleman in the tasting room, who we found out was Walter, responded in English with what was clearly not a French accent. He informed us he was from Scotland.
The wine at Domaine de Mourchon is vinified by Sebastien Magnouac who comes from a family of winemakers in the Armagnac area in Western France, Sebastien started his career in Bordeaux where, after extensive studies and work experience, he qualified as a Cellar Master.
Walter explained that upon arrival from the vineyards, the grapes are sorted on a conveyor, picking out leaves, sub-standard bunches and any other stuff that has made it to that point. The grapes are then de-stemmed and lightly crushed before entry into the winery
The grapes are put into large stainless steel tanks, separated by grape variety and individual parcels of land. In this way, when the wines are made and matured, the winemaker can blend the different varieties and parcels to produce exactly the blend that he wants.
Yeast is added to the tanks and the natural sugars within the grapes begin to ferment until all the sugar turns to alcohol. This initial fermentation process takes place over the course of about one week.
You may not be aware but almost all black grapes have white flesh and produce white juice. The color and character of red wine is developed by leaving the juice in contact with the skins and pips (seeds) for approximately 3 weeks.
To make sure that fermentation, color and structure develop evenly, the winemaker regularly pumps the wine from the bottom of the tank back up to the top where it is passed through the "cap" of skins and solid matter that naturally floats to the surface.
This is where rosé wine differs from red wine. Rosé wine is made from the juice of black grapes but only left in contact with the skins for a short period of time. In the case of Domaine de Mourchon, they leave juice in contact with the skin for only 6-8 hours.
After fermentation, most of the wine is put into concrete vats to start ageing. A small percentage of wine from the oldest parcels is put into French oak barrels. Unlike the stainless steel tanks in which the wine is fermented, concrete vats and oak barrels allow wines to "breath" as they age which help the tannins round out and soften.
Séguret covers approximately 850 hectares (2,100 acres) and can be divided into three different terroirs; down by the Ouvèze river, the soil is silty and has a loam base, the slopes which surround Séguret have a sandstone and pebbly composition and the hills behind the village are limestone giving way to marl (calcareous clay-based soil).
Domaine de Mourchon is located in the hills at approximately 300 meters (almost 1000 feet) altitude behind the steep rocky hill on which the village of Séguret is perched. As you climb the winding road up the hill to the Domaine, the predominance of limestone gives way to a grey marl giving the landscape a crumbly blue base.
Domaine de Mourchon follows a program of sustainable viticulture to maintain a healthy vineyard and low yields. Restricting the yield of the vines increases the concentration in each grape cluster and improves the quality of the wine.
Sustainable viticulture also means a commitment to the use of natural and organic methods wherever practical and the the use of chemicals as a last resort - "culture raisonée" as it is known in France.
As an example, weeds are managed through plowing rather than through the application of weed killers. Organic manures and fertilizers, including the composted lies from the previous years wine, are all used too.
Such prudent vineyard husbandry is a year-round labor - from pruning in the cold winter months when the vines are dormant, to careful canopy management during the vigorous growth period of June and July, through to September and manual harvesting.
This traditional method allows pickers to eliminate any unhealthy fruit and to select individual bunches according to their ripeness, ensuring that grapes arrive at the winery in the best possible condition.
The majority of the Domaine de Mourchon estate is planted in Grenache and then Syrah and lesser amounts of other Rhone varietals.
We tasted through all of the current releases with Walter. Since we were on a mission to replenish our stock of rosé wines, we left with a six-pack of the 2011 Domaine de Mourchon, Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret, Loubié, a rosé made from a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah.
If you are in Sablet or the surrounding area, it is well worthwhile to go and visit Séguret and then go to Domaine de Mourchon. They make some excellent wines. I hope they will be exported soon to California so we can add one of them to our list at Bistro Des Copains.
Have a great weekend! Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
Shirley's favorite morning walk is to head out from Sablet on the path through the vineyards up to Séguret then wander through the pretty village before heading back to Sablet on the connecting road. Séguret was one of the first villages classified as a Plus Beaux Villages de France and is definitely worth a visit.
If you decide to drive to Séguret rather then walk, you will have to park in one of the parking areas just below the village as Séguret is accessible only on foot. From the parking area, walk up the hill through the archway of the old wall around Séguret to the main street.
Wander the narrow cobblestone streets and you will discover the 14th century belfry with its single needle clock, the beautiful 10th century Saint-Denis church, the Rue des Poternes lined with ancient houses, and the Huguenots' gate.
There are a few tourist shops, art galleries, santon workshops, wine shops, and restaurants. Le Mesclun is a very good restaurant and is open throughout the year. There is an adjoining terrace where we have dined several times on warm sunny days.
Walk out the arched portal door at the end of the village through the old wall and circle back to the parking area by way of the road that runs along the base of the village. Make sure you take time to admire the fantastic views out over the vineyards and the village of Sablet.
Shirley would want me to tell you that if you go to Séguret, carry toilet paper in your pocket or purse just in case you need to use the public restrooms located near the parking area; they are very rustic and there is no toilet paper. These toilets would not qualify for classification as one of the Plus Beaux Toilettes de France.
Séguret is not just a beautiful village, it also has vineyards and some very talented winemakers who make very good wine. Among those excellent domaines is Domaine de Mourchon. Every time we go to Séguret, we see the sign by the parking area pointing the way to Domaine de Mourchon but we have never gone.
So this time with friends John and Lorelei in tow, we decided to follow the signs to Domaine de Mourchon. We found the entrance to the Domaine after driving several kms up a very narrow road that at times seemed more like a path, winding around vineyards and through forest land above Séguret.
In comparison to many domaines in the Côtes du Rhône where families have been making wine for multiple generations, the history of Domaine de Mourchon is a recent one. The Domaine was established in 1998 by the McKinlay family with the purchase of 17 hectares (42 acres) of established vineyards with an average age of 55 years.
Up to that time, the grapes from these vineyards had been vinified at the local co-operative. Since there was no winery, a state-of-the art gravity-flow winery was commissioned and completed just in time for the 1999 harvest. In 2003, they bought 7 more hectares (17.3 acres) to meet the growing demand for the Domaine's wine.
The story of Domaine de Mourchon and the McKinlay family's interest in southern Côtes du Rhône wines began in Scotland in the 1970s, when Walter McKinlay and his wife Ronnie chose a Vacqueyras wine as the house wine for her restaurant at The Udny Arms Hotel in Aberdeenshire.
Some years later after selling his information technology business, Walter started looking for a small established vineyard where he and his wife could retire. Despite the fact that the land at Mourchon had no winery and no house, Walter purchased the vineyard and set about the tasks of building a winery and establishing a brand.
Not long after, Walter and Ronnie were joined by their daughter Kate and son-in-law Hugo Levingston and their three children, who all work together to run Domaine de Mourchon as a family-run, independent winery.
Our little group walked into the winery and said "bonjour" and then I launched into a short explanation of who we were, the fact we have a home in Sablet and own a French bistro in Northern California, something I always do.
Of course, this was all in my best French, so we were surprised when the gentleman in the tasting room, who we found out was Walter, responded in English with what was clearly not a French accent. He informed us he was from Scotland.
The wine at Domaine de Mourchon is vinified by Sebastien Magnouac who comes from a family of winemakers in the Armagnac area in Western France, Sebastien started his career in Bordeaux where, after extensive studies and work experience, he qualified as a Cellar Master.
Walter explained that upon arrival from the vineyards, the grapes are sorted on a conveyor, picking out leaves, sub-standard bunches and any other stuff that has made it to that point. The grapes are then de-stemmed and lightly crushed before entry into the winery
The grapes are put into large stainless steel tanks, separated by grape variety and individual parcels of land. In this way, when the wines are made and matured, the winemaker can blend the different varieties and parcels to produce exactly the blend that he wants.
Yeast is added to the tanks and the natural sugars within the grapes begin to ferment until all the sugar turns to alcohol. This initial fermentation process takes place over the course of about one week.
You may not be aware but almost all black grapes have white flesh and produce white juice. The color and character of red wine is developed by leaving the juice in contact with the skins and pips (seeds) for approximately 3 weeks.
To make sure that fermentation, color and structure develop evenly, the winemaker regularly pumps the wine from the bottom of the tank back up to the top where it is passed through the "cap" of skins and solid matter that naturally floats to the surface.
This is where rosé wine differs from red wine. Rosé wine is made from the juice of black grapes but only left in contact with the skins for a short period of time. In the case of Domaine de Mourchon, they leave juice in contact with the skin for only 6-8 hours.
After fermentation, most of the wine is put into concrete vats to start ageing. A small percentage of wine from the oldest parcels is put into French oak barrels. Unlike the stainless steel tanks in which the wine is fermented, concrete vats and oak barrels allow wines to "breath" as they age which help the tannins round out and soften.
Séguret covers approximately 850 hectares (2,100 acres) and can be divided into three different terroirs; down by the Ouvèze river, the soil is silty and has a loam base, the slopes which surround Séguret have a sandstone and pebbly composition and the hills behind the village are limestone giving way to marl (calcareous clay-based soil).
Domaine de Mourchon is located in the hills at approximately 300 meters (almost 1000 feet) altitude behind the steep rocky hill on which the village of Séguret is perched. As you climb the winding road up the hill to the Domaine, the predominance of limestone gives way to a grey marl giving the landscape a crumbly blue base.
Domaine de Mourchon follows a program of sustainable viticulture to maintain a healthy vineyard and low yields. Restricting the yield of the vines increases the concentration in each grape cluster and improves the quality of the wine.
Sustainable viticulture also means a commitment to the use of natural and organic methods wherever practical and the the use of chemicals as a last resort - "culture raisonée" as it is known in France.
As an example, weeds are managed through plowing rather than through the application of weed killers. Organic manures and fertilizers, including the composted lies from the previous years wine, are all used too.
Such prudent vineyard husbandry is a year-round labor - from pruning in the cold winter months when the vines are dormant, to careful canopy management during the vigorous growth period of June and July, through to September and manual harvesting.
This traditional method allows pickers to eliminate any unhealthy fruit and to select individual bunches according to their ripeness, ensuring that grapes arrive at the winery in the best possible condition.
The majority of the Domaine de Mourchon estate is planted in Grenache and then Syrah and lesser amounts of other Rhone varietals.
We tasted through all of the current releases with Walter. Since we were on a mission to replenish our stock of rosé wines, we left with a six-pack of the 2011 Domaine de Mourchon, Côtes du Rhône Villages Séguret, Loubié, a rosé made from a blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah.
If you are in Sablet or the surrounding area, it is well worthwhile to go and visit Séguret and then go to Domaine de Mourchon. They make some excellent wines. I hope they will be exported soon to California so we can add one of them to our list at Bistro Des Copains.
Have a great weekend! Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
Saturday, March 31, 2012
Visitors to Sablet
Our little village and the surrounding area receive many visitors throughout the year. This week, we had a return visit from a most unusual visitor, the Patrouille de France (PAF), the precision aerobatic demonstration team of the French Air Force.
The PAF was formed in 1931 and has been based in Salon-de-Provence about one hour south of Sablet since 1937. There are 8 jets in the Patrouille de France and the team did fly-overs several days this week. I never got my camera up fast enough to capture them when the full squadron of 8 jets were in formation. Maybe next time.
The PAF trains periodically in the sky over the Aerodrome of Plan-du-Dieu and the surrounding countryside causing a little excitement for us in the sky over Sablet from time to time. I guess the Sabletains see them often enough that they don't even look up when they are flying over.
The PAF currently fly Dassault/Dornier Alpha Jets, a light attack jet and advanced training aircraft. Each aircraft is painted blue-white-red with the gun placement replaced with a smoke generator. During one of the training sessions this week, they did aerobatics and released red, white and blue smoke streams behind them.
They finish their fly-by with a loop over. We have seen them make hearts and paint the French flag in the sky on other occasions.
It is an interesting contrast to stand in the village with buildings dating back to medieval times when combatants fought with primitive weapons and then to see the fly-over by the PAF in their ultra-modern Alpha jets.
Maybe you will be lucky enough to catch the PAF training over the sky of Provence one day. Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
The PAF was formed in 1931 and has been based in Salon-de-Provence about one hour south of Sablet since 1937. There are 8 jets in the Patrouille de France and the team did fly-overs several days this week. I never got my camera up fast enough to capture them when the full squadron of 8 jets were in formation. Maybe next time.
The PAF trains periodically in the sky over the Aerodrome of Plan-du-Dieu and the surrounding countryside causing a little excitement for us in the sky over Sablet from time to time. I guess the Sabletains see them often enough that they don't even look up when they are flying over.
The PAF currently fly Dassault/Dornier Alpha Jets, a light attack jet and advanced training aircraft. Each aircraft is painted blue-white-red with the gun placement replaced with a smoke generator. During one of the training sessions this week, they did aerobatics and released red, white and blue smoke streams behind them.
They finish their fly-by with a loop over. We have seen them make hearts and paint the French flag in the sky on other occasions.
It is an interesting contrast to stand in the village with buildings dating back to medieval times when combatants fought with primitive weapons and then to see the fly-over by the PAF in their ultra-modern Alpha jets.
Maybe you will be lucky enough to catch the PAF training over the sky of Provence one day. Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
Monday, March 26, 2012
Exhausted in Provence
Shirley and I have been back in Provence for a little more than a week. We have been going constantly from the moment we wake up in the morning, to the ringing church bells, to when we fall asleep at night, seemingly the minute our heads hit the pillow.
We have visited towns and villages, wandered through markets, met up with friends and family, gone wine tasting `at several wineries, cooked and eaten a lot of great food accompanied by some of the region's best wine.
We are having so much fun and I have lots to share with you. But as you can see from the picture below, I am exhausted at the end of every day so posting will have to wait till we are back to California.
One evening I "retired" to the chair after cooking dinner and fell asleep next to the fireplace in the kitchen. One of our good friends shot this "flattering" picture of me with my own camera while I enjoyed the warmth of the fire.
We have had glorious weather for March, mostly sunshine during the day but cool at night. The first few days, our heater didn't seem to be working very well, so we spent the evenings huddled around the fireplace in the kitchen.
Turns out our property manager had turned down the chaudière to save us money which if you are reading this Paul, we definitely appreciate. Once we figured that out with his help, the house has been toasty warm.
That's all for now; lots more to come. Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
We have visited towns and villages, wandered through markets, met up with friends and family, gone wine tasting `at several wineries, cooked and eaten a lot of great food accompanied by some of the region's best wine.
We are having so much fun and I have lots to share with you. But as you can see from the picture below, I am exhausted at the end of every day so posting will have to wait till we are back to California.
One evening I "retired" to the chair after cooking dinner and fell asleep next to the fireplace in the kitchen. One of our good friends shot this "flattering" picture of me with my own camera while I enjoyed the warmth of the fire.
We have had glorious weather for March, mostly sunshine during the day but cool at night. The first few days, our heater didn't seem to be working very well, so we spent the evenings huddled around the fireplace in the kitchen.
Turns out our property manager had turned down the chaudière to save us money which if you are reading this Paul, we definitely appreciate. Once we figured that out with his help, the house has been toasty warm.
That's all for now; lots more to come. Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
Tuesday, March 13, 2012
Summer is Coming
For us, summer in Provence means lavender, sunflowers, sunshine, brilliant blue sky, fabulous markets, all kinds of festivals, leisurely lunches in village cafés, rosé wine, the Tour de France, and the Journée du Livres, the annual book festival held in Sablet the third weekend of July every year. There are also lots of tourists.
One of our favorite things about Provence is that we can go to an outdoor market in a different village every day of the week if we wanted to. Besides the weekly open-air markets, there are special marché artisanale (art and craft markets) and brocante (flea) markets throughout the summer.
One Sunday morning we came across a marchés de potiers (pottery market) on Place Montfort in Vaison-la-Romaine, a town with lots of Roman ruins about 10 kms north of Sablet. Now there are few things we love more than Provencal pottery and to find a whole market devoted to pottery was just perfect.
As I said, we have a fondness for Provencal pottery and you can find a lot of it in our house in Sablet. We say the terroir of the Southern Côtes du Rhône is perfect for making wines and it's perfect for making pottery too—clay-rich soil, hot sun for baking, wood for firing.
Terres de Provence is an association of 100 artisans who make pottery throughout Provence and hold pottery markets during the summer months. Here is a link to the pottery markets they have scheduled for 2012. Here are pictures of the pottery market we visited in Vaison-la-Romaine. If you click on the pictures, you can enlarge them for better viewing.
A beautiful day, perfect for an outdoor pottery market.
The pottery displayed and sold at this market are all fabricated by the artisans at the market.
You have to be careful when you shop for pottery in tourist shops because a lot of pottery is mass-produced.and not hand crafted by artisans in their workshops.
One thing you will note is that each artisan has their own style and tend to do all of their work in similar colors.
We have been to ateliers (workshops) where we have watched artisan fabricating the pottery right in front of us in the Drome town of Dieulefit, the Languedoc town of Aigues-Vives, the Gard town of St.-Quentin-La-Poterie, and in the Provence town of Aubagne and around Sablet in Seguret and Gigondas.
On Tuesday mornings throughout the year, this café-lined square is part of the weekly open air market in Vaison-la-Romaine.
Summer is coming and if you are thinking about making a visit to Provence from France or elsewhere in Europe or from the United States, Canada or down-under in Australia or New Zealand, and you have not reserved a house, you had better hurry and do so right away.
We still have two weeks open, June 23 to July 7 and the week of August 25 to September 1 until November. If you are looking to spend a week or two in a charming village in Provence, we would be honored for you to consider our home for your stay.
Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
One of our favorite things about Provence is that we can go to an outdoor market in a different village every day of the week if we wanted to. Besides the weekly open-air markets, there are special marché artisanale (art and craft markets) and brocante (flea) markets throughout the summer.
One Sunday morning we came across a marchés de potiers (pottery market) on Place Montfort in Vaison-la-Romaine, a town with lots of Roman ruins about 10 kms north of Sablet. Now there are few things we love more than Provencal pottery and to find a whole market devoted to pottery was just perfect.
As I said, we have a fondness for Provencal pottery and you can find a lot of it in our house in Sablet. We say the terroir of the Southern Côtes du Rhône is perfect for making wines and it's perfect for making pottery too—clay-rich soil, hot sun for baking, wood for firing.
Terres de Provence is an association of 100 artisans who make pottery throughout Provence and hold pottery markets during the summer months. Here is a link to the pottery markets they have scheduled for 2012. Here are pictures of the pottery market we visited in Vaison-la-Romaine. If you click on the pictures, you can enlarge them for better viewing.
A beautiful day, perfect for an outdoor pottery market.
The pottery displayed and sold at this market are all fabricated by the artisans at the market.
You have to be careful when you shop for pottery in tourist shops because a lot of pottery is mass-produced.and not hand crafted by artisans in their workshops.
One thing you will note is that each artisan has their own style and tend to do all of their work in similar colors.
We have been to ateliers (workshops) where we have watched artisan fabricating the pottery right in front of us in the Drome town of Dieulefit, the Languedoc town of Aigues-Vives, the Gard town of St.-Quentin-La-Poterie, and in the Provence town of Aubagne and around Sablet in Seguret and Gigondas.
On Tuesday mornings throughout the year, this café-lined square is part of the weekly open air market in Vaison-la-Romaine.
Summer is coming and if you are thinking about making a visit to Provence from France or elsewhere in Europe or from the United States, Canada or down-under in Australia or New Zealand, and you have not reserved a house, you had better hurry and do so right away.
We still have two weeks open, June 23 to July 7 and the week of August 25 to September 1 until November. If you are looking to spend a week or two in a charming village in Provence, we would be honored for you to consider our home for your stay.
Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
Sunday, March 4, 2012
Roussillon, a Beautiful Village in the Luberon
I don't think we have ever gone to Provence without going to Roussillon, a village in the Luberon region about 35 miles southeast from our house in Sablet. We love the colorful houses in Roussillon, tinted by the ocher that used to be mined here; this makes Roussillon unique compared to the other villages in the region.
The Luberon region stretches 35 miles along a ridge of rugged hills from Cavaillon in the west to Manosque in the east and from the town of Apt south to the Durance River. Much of the area including Roussillon is protected in the Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon.
Roussillon is classified as one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France (one of the most beautiful villages of France). Roussillon sits above one of the world's largest known ocher deposits where 17 shades of ocher--violet, blood red, orange, yellow, and everything in between were once mined.

In the Luberon there are a collection of pretty hilltop villages and valleys with vineyards, orchards (olives, cherry and almond), and fragrant fields of red poppies, sunflowers and lavender. Roussillon is one of our favorites.
There is an amazing range of colors to be seen.
The curiously shaped rock formations add further to the beauty of the area.
Roussillon is located in a green pine forest set on bright red-ocher hills and is a distinct and beautiful sight to see from a distance. Roussillon is even more beautiful in the village, with colorful old buildings and narrow medieval streets.
Our favorite shop in Roussillon sells pretty stone-cast village scenes painted in typical colors. We have a number of his pieces hanging on the walls of our house in Sablet.
The clock and bell tower with a campanile overlooking the main village square.
The Librairie - bookstore in La Maison Tacchella to the left and the Hotel de Ville - town hall to the right in the main village square.
A passageway through the bell tower.
Another view of the clock and bell tower with its campanile set against a brilliant blue sky.
The ocher facades of the houses in Roussillon are beautiful - the colors vary from light yellow to dark red, accented by brightly painted shutters and doors. Many date from the 17th and 18th century.
The 11th-century Church of St. Michel. Nearby there are several places where you can find views in all directions over the surrounding countryside.
The interior of the Church of St. Michel.
Niece Leslie and wife Shirley pause in a stone passageway.
As you stroll around the village, make sure you look for the 150 year old grape vine in front of Restaurant la Treille.
A view back toward the main village square and cafés along the street. Although there are a number of eating places, we have not found any of them to be all that good. A weekly market is held on Thursdays throughout the year.
A pretty window with its bright red facade.
I love blue shutters and my camera finds them every time.
A view of the village from the parking lot near the cemetery shows the many colors of Roussillon.
Another brightly colored rock formation with its exposed ocher. One of the former ocher quarries can be visited via the Sentier des Ocres (ocher path) located next to the village, a walk of either 30 or 60 minutes through the old mining area.
You can see the ocher colors way off in the distance set against the green forest.
It is said that Roussillon is the second most visited village after Gordes in the Luberon region. Despite this, we have never had any problem finding parking close to the village.
The village is fairly small so it doesn't take very long to explore. It is easy to combine a visit to Roussillon with a visit to one of the other hill towns in the Luberon.
As I said, we never go to Provence without making a visit to the Luberon and to Roussillon. The pictures in this post come from three visits we made to Roussillon this past year.
Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
The Luberon region stretches 35 miles along a ridge of rugged hills from Cavaillon in the west to Manosque in the east and from the town of Apt south to the Durance River. Much of the area including Roussillon is protected in the Parc Naturel Régional du Luberon.
Roussillon is classified as one of the Plus Beaux Villages de France (one of the most beautiful villages of France). Roussillon sits above one of the world's largest known ocher deposits where 17 shades of ocher--violet, blood red, orange, yellow, and everything in between were once mined.

In the Luberon there are a collection of pretty hilltop villages and valleys with vineyards, orchards (olives, cherry and almond), and fragrant fields of red poppies, sunflowers and lavender. Roussillon is one of our favorites.
There is an amazing range of colors to be seen.
The curiously shaped rock formations add further to the beauty of the area.
Roussillon is located in a green pine forest set on bright red-ocher hills and is a distinct and beautiful sight to see from a distance. Roussillon is even more beautiful in the village, with colorful old buildings and narrow medieval streets.
Our favorite shop in Roussillon sells pretty stone-cast village scenes painted in typical colors. We have a number of his pieces hanging on the walls of our house in Sablet.
The clock and bell tower with a campanile overlooking the main village square.
The Librairie - bookstore in La Maison Tacchella to the left and the Hotel de Ville - town hall to the right in the main village square.
A passageway through the bell tower.
Another view of the clock and bell tower with its campanile set against a brilliant blue sky.
The ocher facades of the houses in Roussillon are beautiful - the colors vary from light yellow to dark red, accented by brightly painted shutters and doors. Many date from the 17th and 18th century.
The 11th-century Church of St. Michel. Nearby there are several places where you can find views in all directions over the surrounding countryside.
The interior of the Church of St. Michel.
Niece Leslie and wife Shirley pause in a stone passageway.
As you stroll around the village, make sure you look for the 150 year old grape vine in front of Restaurant la Treille.
A view back toward the main village square and cafés along the street. Although there are a number of eating places, we have not found any of them to be all that good. A weekly market is held on Thursdays throughout the year.
A pretty window with its bright red facade.
I love blue shutters and my camera finds them every time.
A view of the village from the parking lot near the cemetery shows the many colors of Roussillon.
Another brightly colored rock formation with its exposed ocher. One of the former ocher quarries can be visited via the Sentier des Ocres (ocher path) located next to the village, a walk of either 30 or 60 minutes through the old mining area.
You can see the ocher colors way off in the distance set against the green forest.
It is said that Roussillon is the second most visited village after Gordes in the Luberon region. Despite this, we have never had any problem finding parking close to the village.
The village is fairly small so it doesn't take very long to explore. It is easy to combine a visit to Roussillon with a visit to one of the other hill towns in the Luberon.
As I said, we never go to Provence without making a visit to the Luberon and to Roussillon. The pictures in this post come from three visits we made to Roussillon this past year.
Bonne journée mes amis et à bientôt.
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