Monday, April 10, 2023

Sainte-Cecile-les-Vignes, the best Saturday market in the Vaucluse for fresh produce, fish, and flowers

One of the best things about coming to Sablet is shopping at the weekly outdoor "marches" in towns and villages throughout the region ... or at least it is for "foodies" like me. Why would you buy fruits and vegetables, cheese, meats, or fish at one of those supermarkets on the outskirts of town when you can leisurely stroll through a market and choose what you want for the next couple of days. 

Depending on what day we arrive in Sablet, we pick up staples from Alain and Mimi at Vival in Sablet and wait for the next market in the area to buy fresh, perishable foods. We arrived midweek this time and missed the Tuesday morning market in Vaison-la-Romaine. So, on Saturday, we got up early and headed to Sainte-Cecile-les-Vignes for the Saturday morning market. 

Sainte-Cecile-les-Vignes is a small village located 15 kms northwest of Sablet on the border of the Vaucluse and the Department of the Drome. As the name suggests (les "vignes" means the vines), Sainte-Cecile-les-Vignes is an agriculture village devoted to making wine. Vineyards surround the village.

The biggest challenge about going to these markets is finding parking, especially if you are not there bright and early. We always try to go early so we find parking within a reasonable distance of the market. Sainte-Cecile-les-Vignes has proved to be more challenging than others in our opinion, although it is not easy to find parking at any of them. This morning we were lucky.

Entrance through the Belltower into the center of Saint-Cecile-les-Vignes
I don't go to the "marches" with a list of things to buy like I do when I go to the supermarket. No, I walk through the market and buy what is fresh, in season, and local. I never buy anything on my first walk through the market. After I have surveyed what is for sale, I take a second walk through and buy what I liked on my first walk-through. 

There was locally grown green and white asparagus. Did you know there is no difference between green and white asparagus. White asparagus comes from depriving the asparagus of light. Dirt is mounded around the emerging stalk, depriving it of light. The plant can't produce chlorophyll without light, thus there is no green color to the stalks. 

Fresh white and green asparagus from nearby Department of the Gard
Invariably, whenever I buy produce on my first walk through a market, I wish I had waited to buy those tomatoes, eggplants or zucchinis a little way further up the street. The only exception I make to buying at the "marches" is if there is a fantastic poissonnier or fromager in the area whose products are better than what you can find in the marches or for staples like flour, sugar, and milk.

Make up your menus as you walk through the market. Don't worry if you don't have a recipe. Between Google, Instagram and Pinterest, you can find lots of recipes when you search for a particular fruit or vegetable. Choose one that sounds good to you. That way you are trying new dishes which is part of the fun of spending time in Provence.

One of the poissonnier at the Sainte-Cecile-les-Vignes market
The market in Sainte-Cecile-les-Vignes takes place every Saturday between 8:00 AM and 1:00 PM at Le Cour du Portalet, La Place de la Marie and La Place de la Fontaine including in front of the parish church of Sainte-Cecile-les-Vignes. This church replaced a church that the villagers had decided was obsolete. Built between 1854 and 1860, the new church was consecrated in 1860 by the archbishop of Avignon. The church was built from stones brought from Saint-Restitut, a village in the Department of the Drome known for its old stones. Inside the church, you can see alters, pictures, and statues saved from the old church.

Sainte-Cecile-les-Vignes parish church
Tomatoes from the Drome
More asparagus and the famous strawberries of Carpentras
Strawberries have been grown around Carpentras since the late 19th century. Carpentras strawberries means they come from the area around Carpentras, not what variety.  You can find them at markets around Sablet between March and June. 

We were going to visit my elderly cousins who reside in a retirement community in Villeneuve-les-Avignons later in the afternoon. So, we bought a box of strawberries from Carpentras to take them as a treat. Cousin Mauricettes spent the first 21 years of her life in Carpentras. You have never seen a bigger smile on someone's face than when we told them we had brought them a box of Carpentras strawberries. I called them on Sunday morning to wish them Happy Easter and they told me they ate the entire box that evening.

Enjoy your trips to the local marches when you are in the South of France. We recommend you go early. Later in the day, it will be difficult to move around, let alone find parking.  

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